Honda CX500 & GL500 Forum

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03-07-2008, 10:09 PM edoardo Joined on 03-04-2008 San Jose, CA Posts 32 help woth pro-link and monoshock So, my GL500 was squeaking at every bump. I have ordered the clymer repair manual but did not get it, so I figured I could do the work myself because I only have the weekends to work on it.. Anyway, it proved to be pretty simple. Unfortunately, all the collars were totally dry and it took me a LOT of WD40 to get the front one (the squeaking one) out. Now I have 4 collars out (2 long and 2 shorts) and I am cleaning all the collars and bolts. Still I have some questions: - the collar in the monoshock does not seen to want to come out. I did not force it because I have no idea how to do that without taking the monoshock out, which seems pretty much impossible.. Does this collar have to come out as well? It has to be noticed that it does not turn anymore, it is fixed with respect to the monoshock. Is this bad? - is there any interest in taking out the monoshock and "clean" it? Since it took me half a day to get there I want to do it now if I have to. - if the answer to the previous question is yes, how do I take it out??? the nuts are inaccessible!! - which grease should I use? - the outside part of the collars seems to have a clear coating that's mostly gone. If I pass my finger on what's left of it, it is smoother than the bare metal underneath. Is this bad? Do I need to replace them or will the grease do the job anyway? - can somebody send me the value I should set my brand new torque wrench for each of the 5 bolts/nuts? Any particular suggestion before I put everything back? I will wait for your answers before putting everything back tomorrow afternoon. Thanks a lot, Edoardo Edoardo Vespa piaggio PX200 1982 Honda GL500 1982 born in 1982...    Report

03-07-2008, 10:11 PM edoardo Joined on 03-04-2008 San Jose, CA Posts 32 Re: help woth pro-link and monoshock  edoardo wrote: So, my GL500 was squeaking at every bump. I have ordered the clymer repair manual but did not get it yet. I did not get it yet.. I guess it will arrive when I'll be done with most of the work.. Edoardo Edoardo Vespa piaggio PX200 1982 Honda GL500 1982 born in 1982...    Report

03-08-2008, 7:40 AM DAVID Joined on 05-16-2007 FORNEY TX Posts 937 Re: help woth pro-link and monoshock 33-40 ft-lb. I use anti-seize on all the collars and bolts and I don't think the collar in the shock mount comes out. If you do a search on 'pro-link sqeak' I think you will find some talk about it. 82 GL500 81 KDX175 If all else fails, read the instructions    Report

03-08-2008, 10:54 AM chip Joined on 03-15-2006 Woodford, VA Posts 194 Re: help woth pro-link and monoshock On the mono-shock, the top sleeve comes out .... the lower one does not...BTDT. Also, the top mono-shock bolt is all that is needed to access .... the nut is welded to the frame. It is a good idea to remove the shock and lube the upper sleeve. It doesn't rotate much, but heck, you've got it apart anyway ....do it right. It would be miserable to put it all back together and have that upper sleeve to start chirping. And you will LOVE the difference in the ride once it's all back together!!!!    Report

03-09-2008, 3:21 PM Sidecar Bob Joined on 03-02-2006 Kawartha Lakes, Ontario Posts 1,901 Re: help woth pro-link and monoshock At some point the fluid in the shock should be changed. This post describes how to rebuild the shock and re-fill it: http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?12,3996,3997#msg-3997 Mr. Honda ('83 GL1000/Dnepr) summer The Famous Eccles ('84 GX650EI/Velorex700) winter WHY I HAVEN"T BEEN AROUND MUCH LATELY    Report

03-09-2008, 5:05 PM edoardo Joined on 03-04-2008 San Jose, CA Posts 32 Re: help woth pro-link and monoshock Well, I got everything out, monoshock included, and back in again. The bolts and sleeves from the pro-link were actually in a very good shape. The one that was squeaking was the best of all. The reason why it was squeaking was that it was bigger on one side... It is like there was too much pressure on the bolt/nut or somebody hammered it into place.. Anyway, it was slightly bigger on one side (I am talking less than half a millimeter) and this prevented it from rotating freely. Now that I have removed the "extra" metal it works just fine. NO SQUEAK :) so proud of myself!! I could not find never seize or moly 60 grase. I found moly reinforced valvoline grease and hope this will work as well. I cleaned everything with a tootbrush and soap and put A LOT of grase in it. I also covered most ot the pro-link assembly in grease to prevent it from rusting. All in all, it took me ~8 hours of work. I reckon that once you know what you have to do and have all the tools ready it should take from 2 to 3 hours. Given that you probably will do that once every 2 to 3 years I think I can keep it the original way (i.e. no zerks). I did not cleaned and refilled the momoshock. I plan to drive a little and in case I see it does not work properly I will do that as well. Only problem, I have no idea how to detect that it does not work "properly".. I cleaned it and there was no leak.. Thanks all for your help. I am now cleaning and repainting the h-box. This week will do engine oil, final drive oil, front forks oil and engine coolant. Next week I plan to ride to Seattle (from San Jose, CA) in 2 days. Wish me luck ;) Edoardo Vespa piaggio PX200 1982 Honda GL500 1982 born in 1982...    Report

03-10-2008, 8:58 PM RustyTec Joined on 08-26-2007 Dallas Tx. Posts 606 Re: help woth pro-link and monoshock “repainting the h-box” I hope you are not using $2 BBQ paint on top of the remains of the rust. That does not work. (Do the sand-blast / power-coat thing). “Seattle (from San Jose, CA) in 2 days” Do your trip, but be ready to do a 'twenty year fix' on the Pro-link when you get back. - It wants anti-seize, molly 60, or a very expensive lithium grease. (molly 60 is available from any Honda-shop). “moly reinforced valvoline grease” I am sure that you got took; by the marketing. It will work for a few thousand miles. But it ain’t a twenty year fix. If it does not list the percentage, it don't have one. Less than 1% molly don't count. RustyTec ’81 GL500. Dallas Texas. RustyVape Electronic Cigarettes Local NE Dallas, Texas    Report

03-10-2008, 10:04 PM edoardo Joined on 03-04-2008 San Jose, CA Posts 32 Re: help woth pro-link and monoshock Hi RustyTec, repainting the Hbox = sand-blasting + hig temp flat black powder coating since there is a minimum price for this I also got the footpegs, both stands, battery cage and some other parts as well.. I did look for Moly60 but could not find it so I figured that this one will work for a while. At least enough to get me to Seattle and back :) Meanwhile, I already ordered the Honda Moly60 and should have it by the end of this week. Don't worry, the "twenty year fix" is in my to-do list. Now that I have done it once I am pretty confident it can be done again on a Saturday morning. Thanks, Edoardo Edoardo Vespa piaggio PX200 1982 Honda GL500 1982 born in 1982...    Report

03-10-2008, 10:05 PM Anonymous Re: help woth pro-link and monoshock What has worked for me for over 10 years on my brother's Pro-Link assembly is high lithium CVJ grease. Go to NAPA and tell them you want a bag (yes, it comes in a bag) of the cookie dough thick high lithium CVJ grease. It is in a brown plastic bag and if you squeeze it it is the consitancy of cookie dough. Dont let them sell you the thinner stuff. It works great on the Pro-Link assembly, the drive shaft if disassembled, the steering head bearings and the rear wheel splines. I have never had it break down in consistancy, nor dry out. Just trim a corner of the bag and when you have used what you need fold the corner over and put a good spring loaded clip on it. The last bag lasted me through a lot of repairs for over 5 years. A little dab will do you ... unless you are packing a roller or ball bearing. David from Wisconsin R80Dave

03-12-2008, 9:48 PM edoardo Joined on 03-04-2008 San Jose, CA Posts 32 Re: help woth pro-link and monoshock I have already ordered the moly60... next time - 5 years from now - I'll try lithium CVJ grease :) Some words on the moly... Shockingly good!!! I opened the pro-link and removed all the grease I put in last weekend. It took me about 10 mins, grease just dissolved when I used some soap. Then I put the moly on it and some invevitably ended up on my hands and arms.. It took me 25 mins to wash the damn thing away!!! So, I now understand why my °moly° grease is NOT moly60 grease. Thanks everybody for your suggestions, have to get back to the garage. I still have to put all the new coated parts (nice!!) on the bike and RIDE IT after two weeks of work!! Tomorrow will do oil & filter, final drive oil & grease, forks oil and seals. I'd like to properly clean my forks too but that will have to wait a couple of weeks.. Edoardo Vespa piaggio PX200 1982 Honda GL500 1982 born in 1982...    Report

03-22-2008, 11:54 AM Sidecar Bob Joined on 03-02-2006 Kawartha Lakes, Ontario Posts 1,901 Re: help woth pro-link and monoshock  edoardo wrote: I did not cleaned and refilled the momoshock. I plan to drive a little and in case I see it does not work properly I will do that as well. Only problem, I have no idea how to detect that it does not work "properly".. I cleaned it and there was no leak.. It might move up & down easily and all that, but the oil is probably 25+ years old and contains God knows how much contaminants. These shocks are no where near the current state of the art even in perfect condition, and worn out, dirty oil won't make them work better. It always amazes me that we are willing to spend the time to service the forks but not the shocks. This week will do engine oil, final drive oil, front forks oil and engine coolant. CX/GL500/650 Cooling System Servicing. Do it right - you don't want hot coolant to spray all over you while you are driving in traffic. Mr. Honda ('83 GL1000/Dnepr) summer The Famous Eccles ('84 GX650EI/Velorex700) winter WHY I HAVEN"T BEEN AROUND MUCH LATELY    Report

03-25-2008, 11:28 AM edoardo Joined on 03-04-2008 San Jose, CA Posts 32 Re: help woth pro-link and monoshock Hi Bob, you are right, I should have changed the oil in the shock. I did not have the clymer at that point and didn't really know how to do it. I will probably do it in a couple of weeks. The status so far is: - engine oil, done - fork oil and seals, done - pro-link assembly grease, done - final drive oil, done - coolant and final drive grease, next weekend - new front brake pads, new weekend all in all, the bike is handling much better now and I am quite satisfied with the resuts. Too bad I will probably have to sell it in some months, it's a really good bike and I like it more every day :) Edoardo Vespa piaggio PX200 1982 Honda GL500 1982 born in 1982...    Report

03-25-2008, 1:42 PM DAVID Joined on 05-16-2007 FORNEY TX Posts 937 Re: help woth pro-link and monoshock Sell it?! With the price of gas, you can't get much better for a daily driver (except your vespa, but who wants to ride that everyday). 82 GL500 81 KDX175 If all else fails, read the instructions    Report

03-25-2008, 1:48 PM edoardo Joined on 03-04-2008 San Jose, CA Posts 32 Re: help woth pro-link and monoshock  DAVID wrote: Sell it?! With the price of gas, you can't get much better for a daily driver (except your vespa, but who wants to ride that everyday). I will be leaving the states in August to go back to Europe... that's why I will probably have to sell it. I am trying to stay here but the current visa policy is not helping :( And shipping the bike to Europe is way too expensive :( So, unless I manage to find a way to stay in here, anybody interested in buying a 1982 GL500?? :) Edoardo Vespa piaggio PX200 1982 Honda GL500 1982 born in 1982...    Report

03-25-2008, 4:45 PM Cobram Joined on 06-23-2007 Boston, MA Posts 1,549 Re: help woth pro-link and monoshock  edoardo wrote: And shipping the bike to Europe is way too expensive :( Not that expensive if you find a decent shipping broker, crate it yourself and ship with a company that consolidates shipments.  They will rent out a container, or usually buy empty space in someone elses container and charge you by the cubic feet your shipment occupies. It's also good to check around various ports, to EuroLand from the West Coast you might get a consolidator to truck it to a LA, TX or even FL port, and it might be cheaper than shipping direct.  I don't know which country you're heading to, but vehicles are usually big buck$ over there compared to here. 1978 CX500 - I live on a one-way street that's also a dead end. I'm not sure how I got here, or how I'm going to get out. Four wheels move the body; Two wheels move the Soul.    Report

03-25-2008, 4:57 PM krglorioso Joined on 03-26-2008 Posts 18 Re: help woth pro-link and monoshock Eduardo: Thank you for asking the question about servicing the Pro-Link suspension. Thanks also to the excellent advice offered in response. My '81 GL-500 just started squeaking today. Talk about good timing! I will approach the service with confidence and the correct grease thanks to all of you. Ralph    Report

03-27-2008, 1:40 PM squigbobble Joined on 04-10-2007 Yorkshire Posts 117 Re: help woth pro-link and monoshock Is it ok to leave the ProLink alone until it starts squeeking or do I need to intervene earlier? '83 CX500 Eurosport - distributed around my cellar. '98 Bandit 600 - back brake in pieces, borderline illegal back tyre.    Report

03-27-2008, 1:55 PM PWG in Lowgap NC Joined on 01-07-2008 Minutes from the Blue Ridge Parkway Posts 2,381 Re: help woth pro-link and monoshock If it aint broke...... 06 Suzuki S50 daily ride CX500c Honda Magna BC age 72    Report

03-27-2008, 2:13 PM edoardo Joined on 03-04-2008 San Jose, CA Posts 32 Re: help with pro-link and monoshock  squigbobble wrote: Is it ok to leave the ProLink alone until it starts squeeking or do I need to intervene earlier? I can tell you that mine feels much better now. The only noise I can hear now is the "puff" of air from the shock. It only takes 2/3 hours of work and you get yourself a nicely done job. With the riding season starting it would be a good idea to just do it and forget about it. Plus, looking at my pro-link, some of the collars must not have been moving for a while before they actually started squeaking.. The one that was squeaking was not even half as worn as the other ones. Edoardo Vespa piaggio PX200 1982 Honda GL500 1982 born in 1982...    Report

03-28-2008, 4:50 AM Sidecar Bob Joined on 03-02-2006 Kawartha Lakes, Ontario Posts 1,901 Re: help with pro-link and monoshock Do you know whether the shock oil has ever been replaced? As I said before, it could be so thin and dirty that it isn't damping properly. As for the pro-lnk, it is always better to lubricate something before it starts to squeek - it will be far less likely to wear prematurely that way. Mr. Honda ('83 GL1000/Dnepr) summer The Famous Eccles ('84 GX650EI/Velorex700) winter WHY I HAVEN"T BEEN AROUND MUCH LATELY    Report

03-29-2008, 8:59 AM krglorioso Joined on 03-26-2008 Posts 18 Re: help with pro-link and monoshock I am about to begin the lubrication service that the Pro-Link requires and am unclear how to access the top shock absorber mounting. I understand that only the bolt head needs be accessed as the nut is welded to the frame. Do I need to remove the air box? Any help gratefully appreciated! Ralph Santa Rosa, CA    Report

03-29-2008, 9:45 AM DaveNearAtlanta Joined on 03-03-2006 Lawrenceville, GA Posts 500 Re: help with pro-link and monoshock It is not necessary to remove the air box.  The top shock absorber bolt can be accessed from the right side of the bike with a 14mm swivel socket and extension. It's a bit of a pain, but not nearly as much as pulling the air box would be unless the engine was already out for some other reason. BTW, I just did this maintenance a couple of weeks ago on a GL500I.  My success rate with using Moly 60 paste has not been that good because corrosion sometimes sets in, and when this happens things start to bind and the squeaking resumes.  This time I used Never-Seez Blue Moly.  We'll see how it does. My Web Site 1982 GL500 1983 GL650 This User ID is no longer used. DaveF is my new User ID.    Report

03-29-2008, 11:10 AM krglorioso Joined on 03-26-2008 Posts 18 Re: help with pro-link and monoshock Thanks, Dave (near Atlanta). I'm ready to go. I got my grease from the local NAPA dealer, but they said they no longer have much call for it as CV joints now are rarely serviced but are replaced and the new units come pre-greased. They don't carry the plastic bags of grease any longer but did have "Sta-Lube Extreme Pressure Moly CV Joint Grease" which I hope will suffice. If not, and I have to do the job again, I'll be a lot more accomplished than this first time and I will certainly use the Never-Seez Glue Moly you mentioned. Odd as it may sound to residents of other areas, my '81 SilverWing has never been in rain and is rarely washed, maybe once a year and then is dried with 100psi compressed air. (I use a spray cleaner and wax, ordinarily). After Eduardo's hassle removing his exhaust, I was expecting a headache separating my components, but the exhaust came off with ease and nary a sign of rust on the "H" collector box. For what we pay to live in California there have to be some advantages. Ralph from Santa Rosa, CA    Report

03-29-2008, 9:17 PM krglorioso Joined on 03-26-2008 Posts 18 Re: help with pro-link and monoshock Pro-Link and shock removal, service and replacement all went well, thanks to members of this forum who provided much appreciated information. This job also allowed me to get into some previously unseen places and clean and inspect, an added bonus. Thank You Ralph Santa Rosa, CA    Report

03-30-2008, 6:08 AM WayneDW Joined on 07-28-2006 Minneapolis Posts 1,655 Re: help with pro-link and monoshock Me too, thanks, all. I hear you, Ralph, about getting into previously unseen places. I said to my wife yesterday morning, "the more parts I take off, the more parts I see that need to come off for cleaning and lubing!" I did stop removing, though, and I am getting all the parts back on this afternoon. Might even drive it around the block today. Won't be getting much riding in though, ... suppose to get another 6-8 inches of snow tomorrow! Wayne 1983 GL650 Silverwing Interstate WWW.fossilapostles.com    Report

03-31-2008, 12:10 AM Randall-in-Mpls Joined on 07-06-2007 Minneapolis, MN Posts 2,630 Re: help with pro-link and monoshock  WayneDW wrote: ... suppose to get another 6-8 inches of snow tomorrow! Sorry, Wayne.  My fault.  I packed away the snow blower this weekend and pulled the Maggot out to start it's spring service. R '78 CX500 - Black Maggot --> Green Grub / Yellow Grub / Red Grub ???    Report

03-31-2008, 5:44 AM DAVID Joined on 05-16-2007 FORNEY TX Posts 937 Re: help with pro-link and monoshock It's 72F here this morning. 82 GL500 81 KDX175 If all else fails, read the instructions    Report

03-31-2008, 9:42 AM Randall-in-Mpls Joined on 07-06-2007 Minneapolis, MN Posts 2,630 Re: help with pro-link and monoshock  DAVID wrote: It's 72F here this morning. I hate you... until it gets warm, at least.  R '78 CX500 - Black Maggot --> Green Grub / Yellow Grub / Red Grub ???    Report

03-31-2008, 9:54 AM mildhog Joined on 11-21-2007 Chesapeake, VA Posts 856 Re: help with pro-link and monoshock Don't know how you guys stand not riding for 4 or 5 months. Of course it does give you plenty of time to perform PM to keep the cicle in top shape. That's something I have to watch. I never want to take it off the road so I haven't fixed my squeek yet. Arnie in VA 1980 GL1100I Goldwing 1982 GL500I Silverwing 1983 GL650 (The stable is full)    Report

03-31-2008, 10:06 AM DaveNearAtlanta Joined on 03-03-2006 Lawrenceville, GA Posts 500 Re: help with pro-link and monoshock Arnie, the trick is to have multiple bikes.  My Web Site 1982 GL500 1983 GL650 This User ID is no longer used. DaveF is my new User ID.    Report

03-31-2008, 10:53 AM mildhog Joined on 11-21-2007 Chesapeake, VA Posts 856 Re: help with pro-link and monoshock That's what I keep telling my wife. Working on it. Arnie in VA 1980 GL1100I Goldwing 1982 GL500I Silverwing 1983 GL650 (The stable is full)    Report

04-01-2008, 9:43 AM RichNCT Joined on 03-02-2006 Connecticut, USA Posts 3,463 Re: help with pro-link and monoshock "Don't know how you guys stand not riding for 4 or 5 months."   Snowmobiles  Refueling on The James Bay Road, 2009 Born to be relatively wild (for a grampa x 3) GL650I, CX650E, CX650T    Report

04-01-2008, 11:31 AM Randall-in-Mpls Joined on 07-06-2007 Minneapolis, MN Posts 2,630 Re: help with pro-link and monoshock  mildhog wrote: Of course it does give you plenty of time to perform PM to keep the cicle in top shape. The only off-season maintainence mine gets will be in the next couple weeks, after it's warm enough to work in the garage, but before the city and the rain clean the salt off the streets. I'd much rather be somewhere warm, where I could comfortably kneel next to the bike and work without gloves in December. R '78 CX500 - Black Maggot --> Green Grub / Yellow Grub / Red Grub ???    Report

04-01-2008, 12:36 PM Panther Joined on 05-09-2006 Las Vegas, NV Posts 1,264 Re: help with pro-link and monoshock Move to Las Vegas.... Year round rideable weather. Peace & Light >^..^< .......... '83 GL650swi "My Little Grey Lady" '82 GL500swi parts bike '78 DT175 '86 LS650 Milady's bike    Report

04-01-2008, 12:45 PM mildhog Joined on 11-21-2007 Chesapeake, VA Posts 856 Re: help with pro-link and monoshock Same here...except for the occasional hurricane. Arnie in VA 1980 GL1100I Goldwing 1982 GL500I Silverwing 1983 GL650 (The stable is full)    Report

04-01-2008, 3:45 PM Anonymous Re: help with pro-link and monoshock I cannot extract the bushes out of my pro link. 25 years they just will not budge and I have given up. I have cleaned all the parts and just stuffed moly grease where I can. slack has now gone, is this ok ? rob roy

04-01-2008, 3:50 PM edoardo Joined on 03-04-2008 San Jose, CA Posts 32 Re: help with pro-link and monoshock  Anonymous wrote: I cannot extract the bushes out of my pro link. 25 years they just will not budge and I have given up. I have cleaned all the parts and just stuffed moly grease where I can. slack has now gone, is this ok ? rob roy It has taken me some hours and what I believe to half a can of WD40 to get the one that was squeaking out. It was worth it. Sine you have everything out anyway, TAKE THEM out now or you'll regret it in a couple of years ;) Edoardo Vespa piaggio PX200 1982 Honda GL500 1982 born in 1982...    Report

04-01-2008, 4:12 PM WayneDW Joined on 07-28-2006 Minneapolis Posts 1,655 Re: help with pro-link and monoshock Rob Roy. Just to clarify, you actually don't want to take the "bushings" out, just the "collar" inside them. Those are Honda's terms for the items. Let me try to explain: There were bolts running through the mechanism, that is self explanatory. The bolts run through a silver colored tube that is called the collar. The collar tube is inside another tube called the bushing. The bushing stays put. To get a rusted collar out, put the linkage in a bench vise and hit it with a pin or cold punch or bolt the right size to only contact the collar and not the bushing. Squirt it with WD40 first. A big enough hammer and a hard enough hit will move it out. And just to make it complicated there is one part that doesn't have a collar that is removable. That is the hole that the bottom of the mono-shock bolts to. Don't try and get that out or you will be sorry (I was). Then what I did was run the collars on a wire brush on my bench grinder to get the rust off. Or, you can order new ones from Honda. They are around $15 each. I ordered just one new one to replace the worst rusted collar and cleaned up the others. I also ran a small round wire Dremel brush on a drill to get the rust out of the bushings. Then you goop them up with grease and put it all back together. Hope this helps! Wayne Wayne 1983 GL650 Silverwing Interstate WWW.fossilapostles.com    Report

04-01-2008, 5:19 PM DAVID Joined on 05-16-2007 FORNEY TX Posts 937 Re: help with pro-link and monoshock Use PB Blaster, WD40 is not a penatrant. (Water Displacer, 40th formula. Originaly made for the aerospace industry for missile storage.) 82 GL500 81 KDX175 If all else fails, read the instructions    Report

04-01-2008, 7:25 PM nippongreen Joined on 03-16-2006 Ottawa, Canada Posts 587 Re: help with pro-link and monoshock Wayne, Thanks for the clarification, the prolink is my next job on the "to do" list. I just hope i can get all the other niggly jobs done before the good weather gets here. Thanks also to all the other members great advice and input. All The Best......keith,Chris + Girls........ 79 CX 500D / 82 GL 500i / 79 CX 500 parts bikes x 2 01 ST1100 Chris's Bikes 84 Honda Shadow VT500/78 Honda 185 Twinstar (ride safe).......SKYPE....(nippongreen).. My D.O.B. 21/04/59    Report

04-01-2008, 8:41 PM Anonymous Re: help with pro-link and monoshock Wayne, The high speed Dremel tool might be a little harsh on the bushing. What I recommend with no problems so far, is using a 12 gauage brass clean out brush mounted to a slow speed cordless drill. It helps to get the dried up grease out of the diamond shaped slots in the bushings. Run the drill both forward and backwards it get all of the corners cleaned out. David from Wisconsin R80Dave

04-02-2008, 4:51 AM larryb22 Joined on 12-13-2007 Buchanan Michigan Posts 144 Re: help with pro-link and monoshock A twenty gauge shotgun cleaning brush & some solvent also works very well. Larry 1996 BMW K-1100rs. SW Michigan. 2008 Yamaha xv250. 1995 Kawasaki Vulcan 500.    Report

04-02-2008, 5:16 AM larryb22 Joined on 12-13-2007 Buchanan Michigan Posts 144 Re: help with pro-link and monoshock Note: FYI The parts manual shows the upper shock bushing with dust seals and caps. Not so. Those are located on the lower end of the shock. The upper bushing has no seals. I pushed my upper bushing out with my fingers. It was snug, but not stuck or rusted. Larry 1996 BMW K-1100rs. SW Michigan. 2008 Yamaha xv250. 1995 Kawasaki Vulcan 500.    Report

04-02-2008, 8:13 AM Anonymous Re: help with pro-link and monoshock Thanks man, I have been confused for two weeks ! even my honda sparts upplier thought I was crazy I think. so there we have, it take out collars and polish a little and clean and moly up fully.       all collars -but not one on the lower shock absorber -glad you said that. just clean what there is and moly it. all clean all back in place. seems play / grinding and sqeaking has gone for now. think I will strip once a year.  thanks to all you great guys.

04-02-2008, 2:11 PM WayneDW Joined on 07-28-2006 Minneapolis Posts 1,655 Re: help with pro-link and monoshock Keith, you are welcome. One more bit of advise that was mentioned above. Go ahead and take both of the lower linkages out and the mono-shock out even though that means you have to drop the H-box, the exhaust pipes and the crash guards. I was going to be lazy and not do that but, thanks to the encouragement from this board to totally complete the job, I did. As a result, I found more rusted collars in the front linkage and at the top of the mono-shock. If I had only done the half way job I had intended to do, I definately would have still had the dreaded squeak going on. The nice thing about it, though, was I took the opportunity to paint the H-box and polish the pipes and crash guards. But, (don't tell Sidecar Bob,) I didn't drain and replace the oil in the monoshock like he said I should. I read the directions for that and I was scared that it seemed to complicated for this carpenter. Hope that doesn't come back to bite me! (sorry, Bob). Wayne 1983 GL650 Silverwing Interstate WWW.fossilapostles.com    Report

04-02-2008, 3:38 PM Sidecar Bob Joined on 03-02-2006 Kawartha Lakes, Ontario Posts 1,901 Re: help with pro-link and monoshock It's not that complicated, but you do need access to a press. I use the arbour press in the shop at work on my lunch hour when I need to do one. - Clamp the shock in a vise so that the air hose end is down, hold the end of the hose in a container and remove the valve. The fluid should be pushed out by the air pressure. I usually leave it overnight to make sure all of the oil drains, but if you are in a hurry you can put the shock in the press and press it a couple of times. - Put the shock in the press with the air hose end up. Place the end of the hose (valve still removed) in a container of fresh fluid (ATF or fork oil), compress the shock (do not overcompress - 45mm max.) and release it so that fluid is drawn into the shock. Repeat until shock is completely full (no more air bubbles). - Press the shock and measure the amount of fluid that is removed. When you have removed 200cc, replace the valve and re-pressurize the shock. Mr. Honda ('83 GL1000/Dnepr) summer The Famous Eccles ('84 GX650EI/Velorex700) winter WHY I HAVEN"T BEEN AROUND MUCH LATELY    Report

04-02-2008, 5:37 PM DaveNearAtlanta Joined on 03-03-2006 Lawrenceville, GA Posts 500 Re: help with pro-link and monoshock  larryb22 wrote: ...The parts manual shows the upper shock bushing with dust seals and caps. Not so. Those are located on the lower end of the shock. The upper bushing has no seals. I pushed my upper bushing out with my fingers. It was snug, but not stuck or rusted... On the 81 GL500I I did last fall the upper end of the shock (the end with the air hose) had a bushing and two seals (but no caps), and they were easy to remove.  I confirmed this a few minutes ago by checking the photo taken then.  Unlike some of the other rear suspension seals, this bushing can slide out without having to remove the seals. The lower shock bushing is extremely difficult to remove as it is pressed in and surrounded by rubber.  Removal of this one should not be attempted. FWIW, from the parts manuals it appears that caps were not used on the 81 shock.  Interesting. My Web Site 1982 GL500 1983 GL650 This User ID is no longer used. DaveF is my new User ID.    Report

04-07-2008, 9:18 PM mildhog Joined on 11-21-2007 Chesapeake, VA Posts 856 Re: help with pro-link and monoshock I'm having a tough time getting the front prolink bolt out. The nut is off but the bolt is frozen solid. Soaked it in PB Blaster, beat on it, worked the swing arm up and down while trying to turn it. No joy. Haven't tried heat yet because of the rubber seals. Any tricks I can try? Knocked off when I was trying to force it. I'm pissed and pooped and that's a bad combination. Only thing worse than a frozen bolt is a broken bolt. Arnie in VA 1980 GL1100I Goldwing 1982 GL500I Silverwing 1983 GL650 (The stable is full)    Report

04-07-2008, 9:32 PM mildhog Joined on 11-21-2007 Chesapeake, VA Posts 856 Re: help with pro-link and monoshock Found another thread with the same problem. Maybe it will help. Arnie in VA 1980 GL1100I Goldwing 1982 GL500I Silverwing 1983 GL650 (The stable is full)    Report

04-08-2008, 12:36 AM TwoW4B2C4V Joined on 11-15-2007 Posts 509 Re: help with pro-link and monoshock  Panther wrote: Move to Las Vegas.... Year round rideable weather. If having your boot sink into the 150 degree Fahrenheit asphalt at stop lights is ride able in summer is debatable!  Sure beats the hell out of what most of us get for a riding season though...you people in San Diego..just shut up.... Please reply if you don't get this message. 01/20/13    Report

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Honda CX500 & G... » CX500 GL500 Tra... » Technical Help ... » help woth pro-link and monoshock

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