|
|
Technical Help Forum
Started by CaTacL1sm at 05-13-2009 12:40 PM. Topic has 33 replies.
 
 
|
|
Sort Posts:
|
|
|
|
05-13-2009, 12:40 PM
|
CaTacL1sm

Joined on 05-02-2008
Rhode Island
Posts 583
|
|
|
would this stuff (different weight of course) be ok to use in my final drive? http://www.spectro-oils.com/products/transmission/platinumgear.asp
it doesnt say if its hypoid oil or not...
and I couldn't find this in the clymer, but to refil the final drive you pour the oil thru the bolt-hole at the top of the final drive, and check the level by unscrewing the bolt on the side, correct?
because I'm too poor to buy a 'Guzzi
|
|
|
|
|
Report
|
|
|
|
05-13-2009, 12:44 PM
|
wildmanwill

Joined on 05-25-2008
Chester County, Pennsylvania
Posts 4,034
|
|
|
|
You don't add oil through the "bolt-hole" on the top, but rather add it through "bolt on the side."
To change the final drive oil - Place your bike on the centerstand Wipe any dirt off of the
outside of the housing in the areas of the drain and the filler Remove the drain screw on the bottom (6mm bolt - 10mm wrench), remove the filler cap
on the side (17mm wrench) and let the oil drain into a container.
When it stops dripping, replace the drain screw on the bottom, add the gear oil
until the level is even with the lower edge of the filler hole, rotate
the wheel so that any bubbles rise, top up again if necessary and
replace the filler cap.
1983 CX650 Turbo 1982 CX500 Custom Donating Member
|
|
|
|
|
Report
|
|
|
|
05-13-2009, 12:47 PM
|
spanish bandit

Joined on 02-12-2009
southern spain
Posts 5,010
|
|
|
not quite,the top is a breather only,
middle..is fill and correct level.
bottom is drain.
not sure about the oil ,some one will tell you
when i feel the need,i do it,llego,ve 60,s -----------------------------  2008.1982 honda gli silverwing [uk model ] 2010.1981 honda gli silverwing [uk model ]
|
|
|
|
|
Report
|
|
|
|
05-13-2009, 12:50 PM
|
spanish bandit

Joined on 02-12-2009
southern spain
Posts 5,010
|
|
|
your quick,its a few of the ones i can answer..lol
when i feel the need,i do it,llego,ve 60,s -----------------------------  2008.1982 honda gli silverwing [uk model ] 2010.1981 honda gli silverwing [uk model ]
|
|
|
|
|
Report
|
|
|
|
05-13-2009, 12:52 PM
|
wildmanwill

Joined on 05-25-2008
Chester County, Pennsylvania
Posts 4,034
|
|
|
I don't know about the oil. I personally use Redline Synthetic. I noticed that this stuff you asked about says that it is "recommended for applications calling for GL-5 or Hypoid quality lubricants," so I'd think you'd be ok using it.
1983 CX650 Turbo 1982 CX500 Custom Donating Member
|
|
|
|
|
Report
|
|
|
|
05-13-2009, 1:53 PM
|
Abes_CW

Joined on 04-17-2007
saskatoon
Posts 3,036
|
|
|
Gear oil isn't super expensive, and a typical bottle will do more than one final drive. Because I had no idea when or ever it had been done on my bike, I drained mine (old oil was silvery) refilled it, ran it on the centre stand in gear for 10 minutes, drained it and refilled again.
1983 GL650i Had 4 CX/GL's at one point this year, down to one, next spring is another adventure!
age 38 (29 plus tax)
|
|
|
|
|
Report
|
|
|
|
05-13-2009, 2:46 PM
|
CaTacL1sm

Joined on 05-02-2008
Rhode Island
Posts 583
|
|
|
yea this stuff is GL-5 oil, ill do some googling and try to find out more
because I'm too poor to buy a 'Guzzi
|
|
|
|
|
Report
|
|
|
|
05-13-2009, 2:49 PM
|
CaTacL1sm

Joined on 05-02-2008
Rhode Island
Posts 583
|
|
|
|
|
|
05-13-2009, 3:06 PM
|
Mothman52

Joined on 09-23-2008
Berkeley, CA
Posts 785
|
|
|
Geez, I think I used 90w or 80w; whatever the shop book reccommends...
Yeah, the stuff that came out of mine with 21k + miles on it was a sickly gray. It felt so good to put clean gear oil in there.
BTW, why you feel the need for the fancy-schmancy synthetic?
1982 CX500C in Metallic Black & Gray
|
|
|
|
|
Report
|
|
|
|
05-13-2009, 3:42 PM
|
CaTacL1sm

Joined on 05-02-2008
Rhode Island
Posts 583
|
|
|
it was the first thing i saw on the shelf
because I'm too poor to buy a 'Guzzi
|
|
|
|
|
Report
|
|
|
|
05-13-2009, 3:45 PM
|
Mothman52

Joined on 09-23-2008
Berkeley, CA
Posts 785
|
|
|
You better stay out of the Jewelry store, then...
++++++++
Hate to hijack this thread, but wildmanwill upthread mentioned the bolthole on the top and it's been killin' me for sometime ~ What the heck is that metal doo-dad on the top of the rear hub and what is it there for? I didn't want to start a whole new thread just to find out.
OK, I'll go away now...
1982 CX500C in Metallic Black & Gray
|
|
|
|
|
Report
|
|
|
|
05-13-2009, 4:25 PM
|
CaTacL1sm

Joined on 05-02-2008
Rhode Island
Posts 583
|
|
|
well I plan on using it to mount my license plate lol
because I'm too poor to buy a 'Guzzi
|
|
|
|
|
Report
|
|
|
|
05-13-2009, 4:36 PM
|
t053376

Joined on 03-02-2008
B.C. Cananda
Posts 332
|
|
|
I guess it goes without saying to go for a ride to heat up the rear end oil. Helps the draining process. Yeh I'm guilty of falling for the "grab the eye level product off the shelf." Might be a "guy" thing when it comes time for shopping!!
80 Custom / prev 83 GL 650I / prev 67 S65 Step thru in restoration 82 Custom / current
|
|
|
|
|
Report
|
|
|
|
05-13-2009, 5:22 PM
|
drneo

Joined on 10-20-2006
Iowa City, Iowa
Posts 378
|
|
|
The little 'doo dad' on top is a breather tube, it allows the pressure inside the final drive to be the same as the outside. It also allows for oil to escape if you overfill the drive (or if you drive over a lot of bumpy terrain - like the streets of Duluth MN).
I (and many others) run synthetic oil in the rear drive because it has a tendency to keep the drive cooler and IMHO it also lasts longer than conventional oil. Less wear and tear on the drive, more life...
Thom
1982 GL500I - "Couchy" 65,000 miles down... 35,000 to go.
www.trainwiththom.com
|
|
|
|
|
Report
|
|
|
|
05-13-2009, 7:01 PM
|
wildmanwill

Joined on 05-25-2008
Chester County, Pennsylvania
Posts 4,034
|
|
|
drneo wrote: | The little 'doo dad' on top is a breather tube, it allows the pressure inside the final drive to be the same as the outside. It also allows for oil to escape if you overfill the drive (or if you drive over a lot of bumpy terrain - like the streets of Duluth MN).
I (and many others) run synthetic oil in the rear drive because it has a tendency to keep the drive cooler and IMHO it also lasts longer than conventional oil. Less wear and tear on the drive, more life...
Thom
|
|
Some have even claimed better mileage while running synthetic gear oil...
1983 CX650 Turbo 1982 CX500 Custom Donating Member
|
|
|
|
|
Report
|
|
|
|
05-14-2009, 3:16 PM
|
Mothman52

Joined on 09-23-2008
Berkeley, CA
Posts 785
|
|
|
Thanks, drneo. Now I can sleep tonight.
1982 CX500C in Metallic Black & Gray
|
|
|
|
|
Report
|
|
|
|
05-15-2009, 8:25 PM
|
gary50
Joined on 09-02-2008
Posts 250
|
|
|
I like the fancy schmancy synthetics. Less drag on the diff equals better performance and better gas economy
I need to change so I think I'll try the synthetic this weekend.
Cheers, 50gary
|
|
|
|
|
Report
|
|
|
|
05-17-2009, 6:59 PM
|
old.schooler

Joined on 04-14-2008
SW FL
Posts 117
|
Re: final drive oil
|
|
|
|
|
Regarding the breather's purpose: Without the breather, the final drive case would be a sealed enclosure. The gear oil and especially the air inside it expand as the drive heats during use and the internal pressure would rise significantly. Likewise it shrinks and the internal pressure drops when it cools. The vent allows the pressure to remain constant in either situation. Without it, seals designed to hold oil with no pressure differential would fail prematurely. I think synthetics have a lower Thermal Coefficient of Expansion, however the air in the case would still expand and pressurize when hot. As for viscosity and synthetics: It's mostly about temperature also. The manual says to use a thicker oil for higher ambient temperatures. This is likely because oils based on natural petroleum change viscosity in inverse proportion with temperature. The gear lash is set for the thickness the oil will film at when at operating temperature. Synthetics are more stable across their temperature range - they don't get as thick when cold, but they also don't get as thin when hot. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the manual says that straight 90 weight is called for in 70F & up temps. I can't even find a non-synth straight 90W, and I believe a 90W synth oil will be even harder to find. While synthetics outperform old-school oils, I'd be sure the oil I would use films at an appropriate thickness for my gear lash and riding conditions - whether synthetic or not.
What part of "It's not a toy" don't you understand?! www.ClicSys.com Instrumentation/GPS/Windows/Embedded Systems Web programming and development
|
|
|
|
|
Report
|
|
|
|
05-18-2009, 8:26 PM
|
Wood_Dubby

Joined on 01-29-2009
West Jordan, Utah
Posts 262
|
|
|
I've seen a mechanism similar to the bike's final drive that had an incorrect bolt put in where the breather bolt was supposed to go. Granted, this was on a large armored vehicle, but the dang thing exploded. I helped tear it apart and replace all the guts, and there was some bad juju going on inside that drive assembly. Metal shavings everywhere, gears ground down to nearly smooth, etc...
It was awesome.
1982 CX500 Custom (A Frankenstein of a machine).
|
|
|
|
|
Report
|
|
|
|
05-19-2009, 4:57 AM
|
tvpierce

Joined on 04-14-2009
Maine, USA
Posts 227
|
|
|
Probably because when the oil and air heated up, they expanded. Since they had no where to go, they blew out the seals -- which dumped all the gear oil. Then the gears just chewed one another appart.
Regarding synthetic, just use it. It's superior to dyno oil in every way. And in this application, one quart will last you two fills. (or close to it)
Current: '79 CX500 Deluxe, '99 Kawasaki Concours (ZG1000) Past: '74 CB550, '81 CB750 Super Sport, '84 VFR 750 Interceptor
"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy!" - Red Green
|
|
|
|
|
Report
|
|
|
|
05-19-2009, 3:08 PM
|
Mothman52

Joined on 09-23-2008
Berkeley, CA
Posts 785
|
|
|
Well now you guys have gotten me all worried. My breather looks all rusty on the outside. Is there a way to check it? Nothing in the Clymers even covers it...
1982 CX500C in Metallic Black & Gray
|
|
|
|
|
Report
|
|
|
|
05-21-2009, 7:10 AM
|
Keith in Rocky River

Joined on 06-25-2008
Rocky River OH
Posts 308
|
|
|
If your looking at the bolt and its rusty, its no big deal. the block under it is the breather and frankly its not like a set of lungs. As the oil heaats it expands. this gennerally happens slowly and over time allowing the vent to work.
If your really that freaked out about it you can use some penetrating oil on the bolt and carefully remove it and clean it up or replace it. Don't break the breather unless you got a spare.
Keith in Rocky River
71 CL175
If Harley riders buy chrome and BMW riders buy tires, What do CX and GL riders buy?
|
|
|
|
|
Report
|
|
|
|
05-21-2009, 9:31 AM
|
bri-guy-ga

Joined on 06-04-2008
Powder Springs, GA
Posts 702
|
|
|
Does the oil have to be straight weight? I have a bottle of 80/90 synthetic gear oil at home. No point buying more if I already have some.
1982 GL500i (currently being rebuilt from ground up)
NO! Try not. Do or do not do. There is no try - Yoda
|
|
|
|
|
Report
|
|
|
|
05-21-2009, 1:42 PM
|
Mothman52

Joined on 09-23-2008
Berkeley, CA
Posts 785
|
|
|
Thanks, KRR. I'll give her a buff.
1982 CX500C in Metallic Black & Gray
|
|
|
|
|
Report
|
|
|
|
05-21-2009, 10:29 PM
|
Sture (in Sweden)

Joined on 03-13-2006
Lund, SWEDEN, born -41
Posts 911
|
|
|
80/90 is fine. I´ve always used it myself - no problem.
The bottle should say "GL-5". That seems to be the important bit (plus 90).
Sture
Honda CX 500 (B) x 4. Honda CB 400 N (C) Superdream -82. M´lady´s learner bike. Yamaha SRX 600 -86. Project, currently in wait mode. PAV 40, Czech single-wheel bike trailer. Project with many stand-stills.
|
|
|
|
|
Report
|
|
|
|
05-26-2009, 12:52 PM
|
bri-guy-ga

Joined on 06-04-2008
Powder Springs, GA
Posts 702
|
|
|
Well I drained and refilled my rear drive and was suprised at how little came out. It was a nasty grey color. I put in a little new and spun the tire both directions a bit and got a bit more out. buttoned it up and refilled till it leaked from the fill hole. I also removed and cleaned the breather. Came off pretty easy and wasn't all that dirty up there. Once it dries out here I will report on any differences I feel/hear.
1982 GL500i (currently being rebuilt from ground up)
NO! Try not. Do or do not do. There is no try - Yoda
|
|
|
|
|
Report
|
|
|
|
05-26-2009, 1:06 PM
|
Mothman52

Joined on 09-23-2008
Berkeley, CA
Posts 785
|
|
|
Feels good to put that fresh fluid in there, huh? I used 90 weight gear oil with no complaints so far...
1982 CX500C in Metallic Black & Gray
|
|
|
|
|
Report
|
|
|
|
05-26-2009, 2:35 PM
|
Len in PA
Joined on 03-31-2006
Bristol, PA
Posts 485
|
|
|
Wouldn't hurt to replace it again, after a short time. It isn't that much oil. How did enjoy the smell? Sure curbs the appetite!
'82 GL500i...nearing 100,000 miles
|
|
|
|
|
Report
|
|
|
|
05-27-2009, 5:41 AM
|
bri-guy-ga

Joined on 06-04-2008
Powder Springs, GA
Posts 702
|
|
|
Sorry Len, I didn't get that close. I really didn't notice a smell though, just the surprisingly small amount that oozed out initially. I have a feeling it was low. Not anymore though. I may give it 200-300 miles and then flush it out again. I have most of the bottle left so can't hurt. I have a feeling the oil has not been changed for a long time if ever. Maintenance was not the PO's big thing I am finding out.
1982 GL500i (currently being rebuilt from ground up)
NO! Try not. Do or do not do. There is no try - Yoda
|
|
|
|
|
Report
|
|
|
|
05-27-2009, 11:54 AM
|
Mothman52

Joined on 09-23-2008
Berkeley, CA
Posts 785
|
|
|
"Maintenance was not the PO's big thing I am finding out."
I think a lot of folks around here could be making that statement, I'm afraid. If I knew a year ago about these bikes what I know now, I could have talked the PO down hundreds of dollars.
Oh well, such is life...
1982 CX500C in Metallic Black & Gray
|
|
|
|
|
Report
|
|
|
|
05-27-2009, 12:40 PM
|
spanish bandit

Joined on 02-12-2009
southern spain
Posts 5,010
|
|
|
got mine on ebay,didnt care if the final drive was full of red wine,id sort it out.thankfully i struck lucky
when i feel the need,i do it,llego,ve 60,s -----------------------------  2008.1982 honda gli silverwing [uk model ] 2010.1981 honda gli silverwing [uk model ]
|
|
|
|
|
Report
|
|
|
|
06-05-2009, 7:50 PM
|
iowarider
Joined on 05-20-2007
Perry, Iowa
Posts 3
|
Re: final drive oil
|
|
|
|
|
I changed mine and like others it was a nasty silvery gray sort of stuff. Replaced it with Mobile 1 synthetic. Not sure if the bike runs better but like others have said it just felt good to do it. I even use the mobile one fancy smancy "for motorcycles" synthetic in the motor. Why not, doesn't take that much and I just love riding a bike that almost never has a twin in any motorcycle group.
1982 CX500 custom
|
|
|
|
|
Report
|
|
|
|
06-06-2009, 8:25 AM
|
Shep

Joined on 01-30-2007
UK.2x1980CX500A
Posts 7,647
|
|
|
|
|
|
06-06-2009, 9:56 AM
|
DaWei

Joined on 11-25-2006
Northfield, Atlantic County, NJ
Posts 589
|
|
|
iowarider wrote: | ... I even use the mobile one fancy smancy "for motorcycles" synthetic in the motor... |
|
John -
You haven't posted much here, but you've been a registered user quite a while. I hope you've read the cautions about using oil with friction reducing additives in the crankcase - problems with the wet clutch.
BTW - proper usage is "fancy schmancy" 
Dave in NJ '80 CX500 C - needs Triple Bypass - but TITLED! '78 CX500 - Working on NJ DMV Title
Where's the BIRTH CERTIFICATE?
|
|
|
|
|
Report
|
|
|
|
|
Honda CX500 & G... » CX500 GL500 Tra... » Technical Help ... » final drive oil
|
|
|
|