Honda CX500 & GL500 Forum

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03-08-2010, 12:23 PM OldMan Joined on 03-09-2010 Whidbey Island, WA Posts 11 Corroded bike: good deal or bad? I've found an 82 CX500 with 17000 miles for $300. It was used by the current owner for communting about 50 miles each way, then put in his barn where it has sat (and not run) for "a couple of years". I has a lot of surface corrosion on both steel and aluminum, probably because it was parked in the open near the ocean during work days for at least a couple of years. The question is whether exterior corrosion also indicates a greater liklihood of interior corrosion, and serious corrosion of the thinner parts such as the radiator. Is this a reasonable deal or one of those things you wish you hadn't gotten into? I wouldn't want to run it without changing oil, draining gas, and checking filters so running it to assess condition is not an option. Any advice apreciated. My son says run, don't walk, away.    Report

03-08-2010, 12:33 PM Doward Joined on 05-11-2008 Alachua, FL Posts 816 Re: Corroded bike: good deal or bad? For $300?   No.  For $100?  Yeah, I'd dig into it and strip everything / rebuild it. 1978 CX500 motor + 1980 CX500C frame    Report

03-08-2010, 2:40 PM Panther Joined on 05-09-2006 Las Vegas, NV Posts 1,264 Re: Corroded bike: good deal or bad? I say maybe. How are the plastics? The paint? Is the tank rusty inside? If you are handy with hand tools, I wouldn't worry about it to much. The internals should be fine, but your wire connections may have corrosion buildup too. If you don't care what it looks like, just spray it down with Evap-o-rust in a handpump spray bottle everywhere you can get it. let it sit for a day, then Power wash it all off. if you want to make it look good again. strip the frame down. it isn't that hard. I'd leave in the triple trees unless you are going to replace the head bearings or powder-coat the frame. Use the Evap-o-rust on all steal parts that show corosion. then rattle can it with a good rust converter/primer and paint with a quality spray paint. Either way, Change the oil. (I run Rotella T 5w-40 diesel synthetic in All my bikes and cars) clean the crabs real well, flush the cooling system. (making sure to use a silicate free antifreeze like Prestone all makes all models to refill) Clean or replace the stator connector Change the differential oil. (I recommend Amsoil Severe gear 75w-90. http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/svg.aspx ) Preform all the basic periodic maintenance, valve adj, spark plugs, cam chain tensioner, Lube rear drive flange. (use Honda Molly 60 grease on All non-bearings! but not on Any bearings.) Bleed the brakes. Change the Tires! I have been very happy with the traction in dry and wet + lifespan of my Bridgestone S11's. ~$130 a set) If you feel up to this work, $300 isn't a bad idea. ie: $130 tires $20 Syn Oil, $6 oil filter form Honda, ($4 from fleabay) $10 Coolant $3 B-12 chemtool carb cleaner $6 Top quality connector for the stator output wires. (the yellow ones)         http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Sealed/MetriPack280/metripack280.aspx $9 1 quart Syn gear oil $8 Moly 60 $20 Evap-o-rust $7 can of converter/primer $20 three cans of spray paint $5 for blue masking tape. $4 for two NGK plugs from autozone. $4 for syn DOT 3 brake fluid. ~$550 for all plus the bike. and maybe tow or three weekends of work. Not to bad. Of course, YMMV. lol. Peace & Light >^..^< .......... '83 GL650swi "My Little Grey Lady" '82 GL500swi parts bike '78 DT175 '86 LS650 Milady's bike    Report

03-08-2010, 2:47 PM peterL Joined on 07-14-2007 Virginia Posts 182 Re: Corroded bike: good deal or bad? the 82 is kinda cool b/c the electrics are more durable than the other years; if you buy it you should ask the forum; some parts are more like gl than they are like cx. if it were me I wouldnt sweat the small stuff like radiators, but worry about engine, title, look to see if the electrical parts are all there and not jury rigged. are there signs of oil leaks at the major seals? Is there a way you can turn the engine over gently (5th gear? wrench on the front bolt?) tires & brakes will be substantial expenses, so if you'd rather have a daily rider asap, there are better deals. hth Peter L.    Report

03-08-2010, 3:03 PM Spacetiger Joined on 05-16-2009 Chantilly, VA Posts 1,355 Re: Corroded bike: good deal or bad? For $300 how can you go wrong as long as the bike is complete. If you don't have a bike, get it but be prepared to drop about another $500-650 (fluids changed by you, new tires, helmet, jacket, gloves, riding boots, and possibly a new battery).  If you are thinking of riding a bike and you do not have these items, then you wil have to spend this amount anyways, so I don't count them in the initial purchase price. So now you know, buying this bike will really cost you about $1K... Jerry 90 PC 800 (commuting steed) 82 GL500I (50+mpg, great bike) 66 BMW R 50/2 (No brakes/HP) 80 CX500C (Loved this bike) 74 CB360 (Fun; but too small) 79 CX500D (40,000+ mi in 3 years) 76 CB550 (step up from 200cc) 74 KZ200 (1st bike!)    Report

03-08-2010, 3:45 PM vitter Joined on 04-29-2006 East of Smoke; Ontario Canada Posts 149 Re: Corroded bike: good deal or bad? it's a parts bike. If it's corroded outside, the inside won't look any better. quote: "probably because it was parked in the open near the ocean" Eeeeeeek!! I know what road salt does to a vehicle - ocean spray is surely just as bad.    Report

03-08-2010, 4:39 PM NightBiker07 Joined on 04-20-2009 Toledo, OH Posts 506 Re: Corroded bike: good deal or bad? Well, the list price on a engine block for these bikes is 1800 bucks. obviously, nobody will EVER buy one, but i bet there is more than $300 worth of good parts on the thing. 80 CX 500 2000 CR 250 DIRT BIKE!!!!!!!!!!    Report

03-08-2010, 5:10 PM OldMan Joined on 03-09-2010 Whidbey Island, WA Posts 11 Re: Corroded bike: good deal or bad? Thanks for all the good advice. I don't doubt the engine will turn over. If it won't that's obviously a very bad clue. Tires are shot; thanks for the tire recommendation. Seat has a tear. On the plus side the corrosion was probably from the ocean, meaning that for the majority of its life it has been under cover and the corrosion is probably more exterior as the daily dose was followed by a run back to the barn. Corrosion on wide areas is less a concern than nooks and crannies, and for what it might mean to stuck fasteners. I hear Evaporust for steel. What's the best product for aluminum? I may try for a price reduction based on the corrosion. Roger on all electrical connectors--clean and dielectric grease. Brakes are a sign too, esp if frozen. RE the poster suggesting Rotella syn oil, I thought syns were not the best for wet clutches. And on syn brake fluid, I thought it was poorer RE water absorption. i'm sure the battery is toast. I don't need yet another project that sucks time with no reward. I've got enough of those. So if this goes through I'd decontaminate the engine and get it running first, then go from there. Thanks again, and any other advice also appreciated.    Report

03-08-2010, 6:24 PM Blindstitch Joined on 03-14-2009 Greenfield Wisconsin Posts 9,863 Re: Corroded bike: good deal or bad? I would offer $200 but seeing a picture would be better. I'm all for an 82 if I can get one. 1979 CX500 Supertanker ATGATT makes riding a bike like a sled easier. Quick Reference    Report

03-08-2010, 6:29 PM EnduroRdr Joined on 07-27-2009 Houston TX Posts 56 Re: Corroded bike: good deal or bad?  Spacetiger wrote: For $300 how can you go wrong as long as the bike is complete. If you don't have a bike, get it but be prepared to drop about another $500-650 (fluids changed by you, new tires, helmet, jacket, gloves, riding boots, and possibly a new battery).  If you are thinking of riding a bike and you do not have these items, then you wil have to spend this amount anyways, so I don't count them in the initial purchase price. So now you know, buying this bike will really cost you about $1K... Jerry Agreed! if it has a title and the motor will turn over its a good base, if you want a project. Don't expect to turn it into a pristine machine but maybe a cool rat rod or cafe whatever. You can deal with most of the corrosion. If motor has bad pits then wire brush it and paint it. The big question for me would be will it run? other wise you paid too much for mostly useless corroded parts. I paid 300 for mine (he wanted 500) but I had to hear it run first, ran like crap because carbs were full of varnish but the mains were clear enough to run half throttle and no smoke - I said 300 - he said sold! Bring a hot battery change the gas and test it. But like said above be prepared to most likely end up spending close to a grand when done. If your not into rebuilding time then just look for a good clean legal runner for 800-1000.    Report

03-08-2010, 7:45 PM Spacetiger Joined on 05-16-2009 Chantilly, VA Posts 1,355 Re: Corroded bike: good deal or bad? EnduroRdr, I forgot those 2 items: title and motor should run (even if baddly) with no smoke. It its a parts bike, then you do not have to worry so much about these 2 items - but get a Bill of Sale. Jerry 90 PC 800 (commuting steed) 82 GL500I (50+mpg, great bike) 66 BMW R 50/2 (No brakes/HP) 80 CX500C (Loved this bike) 74 CB360 (Fun; but too small) 79 CX500D (40,000+ mi in 3 years) 76 CB550 (step up from 200cc) 74 KZ200 (1st bike!)    Report

03-09-2010, 12:25 AM Panther Joined on 05-09-2006 Las Vegas, NV Posts 1,264 Re: Corroded bike: good deal or bad?  OldMan wrote: What's the best product for aluminum? Brakes are a sign too, esp if frozen. RE the poster suggesting Rotella syn oil, I thought syns were not the best for wet clutches. And on syn brake fluid, I thought it was poorer RE water absorption. Don't know about aluminum. but corrosion on that isn't as structurally bad as with the steel. It may Look bad, but it isn't going to rot through or anything. You can usually get by with a frozen caliper by just taking it apart, cleaning it up and putting it back together. (so, no cost) The Rotella T 5w-40 syn oil does not have the "energy conserving" additives that cause clutch problems. There are members here running it in their CX650ct turbos. if it holds there, it will handle your 50hp peak easily. (works Great in my 65hp gl650 with full load, fairing and my fat a$$ on it. even when ridden Hard.) The Prestone syn DOT 3 brake fluid does not have a water issue that I have ever heard or found. and I have been using it for a Long time. but it does have a much better temp rating and seams to last longer before getting cloudy. imo. (You may be thinking of DOT 5 silicone brake fluid that has some strange water issues with rust and corrosion.) Just take some fresh gas to try, and an empty can to drain the old out. and some starter fluid as back up. If it wont start on the splash of fresh gas, pull the seat and air filter out, spray a 2-3 count into the air box and give it a spin. You will know if it wants to run. No spark = bad, do not buy. But if it runs at all with the choke on or for a few seconds on the starter fluid. I would buy it. the rest is easy. (having worked on these bikes before, I could do all the stuff on my list above in 1 weekend. maybe even one day if I had too and could stay focused.) But there isn't much harm in trying for that extra 50-100 off either. *grin* Peace & Light >^..^< .......... '83 GL650swi "My Little Grey Lady" '82 GL500swi parts bike '78 DT175 '86 LS650 Milady's bike    Report

03-09-2010, 4:44 AM md jwk Joined on 08-26-2009 Westminster, Md Posts 85 Re: Corroded bike: good deal or bad? I did a similar deal from a junkyard. Take your time and dont rush it. Buy yourself a clymers manual and go over each system. I spent about about $600 and 4 months cleaning and repairing before it was road worthy. Make sure you have lots of before and after pictures. HAVE FUN 1983 cx650 c    Report

03-09-2010, 4:57 AM roadster5580 Joined on 01-18-2008 Atlanta, GA Posts 326 Re: Corroded bike: good deal or bad? As stated, it usually cost about $600 to "restore" a sitting bike to a daily rider (that includes a paint job).  With the description you gave of the bike and once the "restoration" is complete, it would probably be considered in GOOD condition.  The NADA price guide list $625 for this bike in GOOD condition. Some people will dispute the pricing listed in the NADA, but I've found over the years having bought and sold at least 100 used bikes it is fairly accurate within + or - 10%.  It all depends on your location and local market for used bikes.  The CX is a niche bike and not that easy to sell to someone that is not a fan of the model.  I always use the NADA "Good" price as the low end for a running bike I plan to "flip".  After that, I total the parts necessary to bring the bike to everyday riding condition and estimate my labor at $35 per hour.  I actually have an EXCEL spreadsheet I plug the numbers into to make a decision.  If the math works, I buy the bike, if not I pass.  In my HMO, I would pass on this one. http://www.nadaguides.com/default.aspx?LI=1-23-38-5697-0-0-0&l=1&w=23&p=38&f=5698&m=0028&d=1500002988&y=1982&ml=H&gc=AM&gtc=MC I've found it is usually more profitable to buy a running bike at a cheap price than it is to bring a "barn find" bike to life.    Report

03-09-2010, 9:47 AM NightBiker07 Joined on 04-20-2009 Toledo, OH Posts 506 Re: Corroded bike: good deal or bad? We cant really tell you anything accurate unless you grab some pics 80 CX 500 2000 CR 250 DIRT BIKE!!!!!!!!!!    Report

03-09-2010, 2:59 PM OldMan Joined on 03-09-2010 Whidbey Island, WA Posts 11 Re: Corroded bike: good deal or bad? A few people have asked for photos and that makes sense. I'll see what I can do, and also get an idea of if the price is firm or he just picked one out of the air. The answers here seem to be divided more or less down the middle, some saying walk away, and others saying it might work, but you'll end up spending a grand and doing the elbow work too. I can see both sides. Wish I couldn't. Thanks again for the responses.    Report

03-09-2010, 4:51 PM OldMan Joined on 03-09-2010 Whidbey Island, WA Posts 11 Re: Corroded bike: good deal or bad? I got about 15 pics before the camera quit. Now I have to figure out how to upoad the pics somewhere and that may take a few hours. Less aluminum corrosion than steel corrosion. I'm not so sorried about the aluminum now. I looked harder at engine mounts for cracks and corrosion. There is rather heavy surface corrosion on parts of the frame and the exhaust under the bike, but it seems to be surface mostly with no pinholes. Front fender, headlight enclosure, handlebars, mirror supports, and gas cap the worst with much chrome peeling. Gas tank has surface bubbles near nameplate and a few other places with quite a bit of good paint. Removing fasteners and possible broken fasteners looks like a big potential problem to me now. Last tags March 07 so it has sat a max of 3 years and a min of 2 years. Tires are bald. Continental rear tire. Original or second set assumed. All plastic, lights, and turn signals present and undamaged. Small oil leak under left footpeg. Bottom half of oil filter cover oily. Front brake lever has no pressure (and the fluid had to have gone somewhere). Brake and clutch handles are sticky but feel like they would loosen well with lube. No appreciable wear on front brake rotor. Rear brake worked right away. Engine turns over, difficult at first in 2nd and I couldn't tell if was really turning over, much easier in 5th. Both front fork seals bad. Engine oil looks dirty but not terrible and doesn't smell bad. Very little fluid (green I think) in coolant reservoir. Some green tinge on radiator (leakage?) visible in pics. Owner bought 4-5 years ago with "not many miles (3k to 7k I'd guess). Commuted 60 miles 1 way 4-5 times a week for maybe 4-5 months of the year for maybe 3 years which would mean 5K-7k miles per year if he didn't drive it consistently. So it appears to me likely that most of the miles were highway commutes. Doesn't look like it was ever dumped. I'll try to upload pics. Wish I could just paste them in.    Report

03-09-2010, 4:58 PM OldMan Joined on 03-09-2010 Whidbey Island, WA Posts 11 Re: Corroded bike: good deal or bad? Test, vir Imagenerd: thumbnail, headlight Do you want thumbs or big pics, or does the thumb allow you to find the big pics?    Report

03-09-2010, 5:05 PM Blindstitch Joined on 03-14-2009 Greenfield Wisconsin Posts 9,863 Re: Corroded bike: good deal or bad? Thumbs allow big pictures. 1979 CX500 Supertanker ATGATT makes riding a bike like a sled easier. Quick Reference    Report

03-09-2010, 5:08 PM OldMan Joined on 03-09-2010 Whidbey Island, WA Posts 11 Re: Corroded bike: good deal or bad? Yeah I see now supertanker. I assume that because they are small I can put in several. Steel coolant piping is nasty.    Report

03-09-2010, 5:11 PM Blindstitch Joined on 03-14-2009 Greenfield Wisconsin Posts 9,863 Re: Corroded bike: good deal or bad? Well I pass. If you can't get it for $50 it's not worth it. That's the most rust i've ever seen on a cx. 1979 CX500 Supertanker ATGATT makes riding a bike like a sled easier. Quick Reference    Report

03-09-2010, 5:16 PM OldMan Joined on 03-09-2010 Whidbey Island, WA Posts 11 Re: Corroded bike: good deal or bad? ST: "That's the most rust I've ever seen on a cx." Not what I wanted to hear, but not exactly surprising.    Report

03-09-2010, 5:26 PM Blindstitch Joined on 03-14-2009 Greenfield Wisconsin Posts 9,863 Re: Corroded bike: good deal or bad? Where are you located? Put it in my profile. I'm sure we can find you a bike that isn't a piece of crap for a decent price. 1979 CX500 Supertanker ATGATT makes riding a bike like a sled easier. Quick Reference    Report

03-09-2010, 6:04 PM EnduroRdr Joined on 07-27-2009 Houston TX Posts 56 Re: Corroded bike: good deal or bad? Ohhh I agree with Blindstich - that's a 50 dollar parts bike maybe 100 if your hard up and need something off it like a good titled frame. Keep looking - here is an example of just a couple hundred more dollars will get you. With still some work but not like that other one. http://sanmarcos.craigslist.org/mcy/1635163422.aspx    Report

03-09-2010, 6:29 PM Spacetiger Joined on 05-16-2009 Chantilly, VA Posts 1,355 Re: Corroded bike: good deal or bad? wow, most rust I have seen to. I think the only thing worth anything would be the side covers.... they are plastic and not rusty. I don't think it is worth $50 unless you are taking it for a parts/experimental bike. This isn't a primary bike buy. Jerry 90 PC 800 (commuting steed) 82 GL500I (50+mpg, great bike) 66 BMW R 50/2 (No brakes/HP) 80 CX500C (Loved this bike) 74 CB360 (Fun; but too small) 79 CX500D (40,000+ mi in 3 years) 76 CB550 (step up from 200cc) 74 KZ200 (1st bike!)    Report

03-09-2010, 6:34 PM OldMan Joined on 03-09-2010 Whidbey Island, WA Posts 11 Re: Corroded bike: good deal or bad? Ok I get the picture. A pretty strong consensus. Sorry for the mis ID Blindstich. There is a CX about 90 miles from me for $600 and a couple others at $1k and $1300, and perhaps still the GL for $600 near me, so I know they are around. There's more to the story than this, but this part of it seems ended adn the rest is OT. Thankis again for all the advice. It's much appreciated.    Report

03-09-2010, 7:18 PM Blindstitch Joined on 03-14-2009 Greenfield Wisconsin Posts 9,863 Re: Corroded bike: good deal or bad? In the right part of the U.S. a good if not great Cx can be had with a bit of work for $600. Where are you located? 1979 CX500 Supertanker ATGATT makes riding a bike like a sled easier. Quick Reference    Report

03-09-2010, 7:35 PM lucky Joined on 03-06-2009 kingman az age 26 Posts 1,443 Re: Corroded bike: good deal or bad? wow i wonder what the inside of the tank looks like.........to be honest i would run away from that it looks like they threw it into the ocean and let it sit a day or two and then just pulled it out and left it outside ........damn that is crazy 1982 honda cx500c 1979 honda xr185 dirt bike If you can read this thank a TEACHER If you're reading this in ENGLISH thank a SOLDIER http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/    Report

03-10-2010, 4:22 AM Sams GL 650 Joined on 02-17-2010 Annville PA (USA) Posts 191 Re: Corroded bike: good deal or bad? PARTS BIKE ONLY! AND only if you REALLYneed the part. I wouldn't offer more than $50, --and only then , if the above applied. The guys are right, better bikes elsewhere, for reasonable costs. sam Bikes: 2002 Kawasaki Vulcan 1983 Honda GL 650 1 st Bike Honda CL 175 (1974) Age 52    Report

03-10-2010, 12:55 PM tvpierce Joined on 04-14-2009 Maine, USA Posts 227 Re: Corroded bike: good deal or bad? +1 on it being a parts bike. An '82 has the upgraded ignition... that alone makes it a good candidate to keep for parts. But I wouldn't pay more than $50. Edit: I don't think I've ever seen as severe a case of rust on any bike of any make or age. Good luck. Current: '79 CX500 Deluxe, '99 Kawasaki Concours (ZG1000) Past: '74 CB550, '81 CB750 Super Sport, '84 VFR 750 Interceptor "If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy!" - Red Green    Report

03-10-2010, 4:43 PM Doward Joined on 05-11-2008 Alachua, FL Posts 816 Re: Corroded bike: good deal or bad? Wow.  You'd best have a sand blaster handy if you pick that up!   Not sure how much metal you'd have left, though!! 1978 CX500 motor + 1980 CX500C frame    Report

03-17-2010, 8:13 AM wildmanwill Joined on 05-25-2008 Chester County, Pennsylvania Posts 4,034 Re: Corroded bike: good deal or bad?  Blindstitch wrote: Where are you located? Put it in my profile. I'm sure we can find you a bike that isn't a piece of crap for a decent price.  Blindstitch wrote: In the right part of the U.S. a good if not great Cx can be had with a bit of work for $600. Where are you located? Sort of hard to help someone find a bike when they don't state where they are, eh? 1983 CX650 Turbo 1982 CX500 Custom Donating Member    Report

03-17-2010, 9:03 AM Blindstitch Joined on 03-14-2009 Greenfield Wisconsin Posts 9,863 Re: Corroded bike: good deal or bad? Well maybe he wants us to find one then he will come get it from where ever in the world he is. Shipping could be a pain. 1979 CX500 Supertanker ATGATT makes riding a bike like a sled easier. Quick Reference    Report

03-19-2010, 1:11 PM OldMan Joined on 03-09-2010 Whidbey Island, WA Posts 11 Re: Corroded bike: good deal or bad? Sorry for no response. I don't visit every day. I'm in WA state. I appreciate the offer to locate a bike but don't want to pursue that at this time. I brought the bike home, will see of the engine runs and go from there. If I pursue it I should call it Lazerus. Thanks for all the help. Will update in a few.    Report

03-20-2010, 5:57 AM bikeme2001 Joined on 03-07-2010 maine Posts 9 Re: Corroded bike: good deal or bad? Thats a free for the taken around here.I paid 50 bucks for a running bike.Exhaust is 325 and tires are 200.Parts bike!!!    Report

03-20-2010, 11:29 AM George in Indiana Joined on 03-03-2006 Posts 954 Re: Corroded bike: good deal or bad? Oh my... There are so many good quotes from the movie Christine on this one. Mom:  And how could you let him do this?! Dennis:  I didn't let him....I mean he wanted the car and he bought it........I tried to talk him out of it in fact. Mom:  I doubt that you tried very hard! Darnell:  'Kiddo, if you sold him that piece of shit, you oughta be fuckin' ashamed of yourself. Dennis:  I didn't sell it to him.  I tried to talk him out of it. Darnell:  You shoulda' tried harder. CX500 TURBO CX650 TURBO '04 GSX1300R Hayabusa    Report

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