GL500 fuel shut-off leak... - Honda CX500 & GL500 Forum

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Started by djtimpe at 03-10-2010 5:56 PM. Topic has 1 replies.

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03-10-2010, 5:56 PM

djtimpe is not online. Last active: 7/22/2010 8:43:15 AM djtimpe

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Joined on 02-07-2010
Kenmore, Washington
Posts 163

GL500 fuel shut-off leak...

My 82 GL500's fuel shut-off has a leak just below the knob. There's some staining on the metal from past drips I assume. The bike was sitting for some twenty years prior to it coming into my life and I bought a rebuild kit for the shut-off.

Anyone done this before? Any suggestions? Finally, does this sound like it will fix the leaks?

Thanks
"Don't sweat the petty things, pet the sweaty things."

Darren - Western Washington

82' Honda GL500
82' Honda GL500 Interstate

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03-10-2010, 11:35 PM

Panther is not online. Last active: 7/22/2010 12:43:17 PM Panther

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Joined on 05-09-2006
Las Vegas, NV
Posts 1,264

Re: GL500 fuel shut-off leak...

I Just did this to three of my petcocks. lol. Yesterday.

Best to use a small drill bit to start your pilot hole. one that will Not drill out the rivet, but will fit into the center hole in it.
a lot easier to mount it into a bench vise, but I just was Very careful to drill the holes square and did it on the floor of my garage.

Drill the pilot hole in, careful not to drill into the body on the one hole, all the way through the other.
then I took the drill bit that came with the "drill, screw, and tap" kit to drill the tap holes.

Then I got a large drill bit to drill the "head" off the rivet. used a small flat blade screw driver to pop the plate and valve out.

This leaves you with a small shoulder to help realign the plate when you put it back together.

Now tap out the holes. the blind one is first tapped with the standard tap to get the threads started. (dont force it when it bottoms.)
then re-tapped with the flat ended "Bottoming" tap.

I also had to grind the valve handle a bit to get clearance for the allen head screws. it would hit the head on the allens when you turned it. Button head allens would not need as much grinding, but some would be needed for almost any petcock design I have seen.

The part that actually leaks out the valve is the o-ring on the valve it self, not the inner partitioning seal with the four holes in it.
If your kit didn't come with the Thin, Square o-ring. like mine didn't. You can use a Nitrile o-ring that is slightly smaller diameter than the stock one if it is 1.8 round. I had to use a 2.4 round, so I used one three sizes to small to stretch it out and fit into the body. I also used some silicone paste (ie: electrical grease) to lube the o-ring befor assembly to help it slide smoother. not sure how long it will last.

I didn't have time to wait for the new 4 hole gaskets to come in, so I soaked my old ones in brake fluid for two minutes and dried them off with a rag. that softened them up enough i think. then I put them in "backwards" to have the fresher side "up".

I will try and find a better o-ring to use for when the new 4-hole gaskets come in.

What came with your kit?

Mine was a tap/drill kit I bought Years ago and lost the rubber gaskets out of it a long time ago.
It came with a 6-32 tap, a 6-32 bottoming tap, a drill sized for the taps, and 4 small 6-32 stainless steel allen head screws.

Peace & Light

>^..^<
..........
'83 GL650swi "My Little Grey Lady"
'82 GL500swi parts bike
'78 DT175
'86 LS650 Milady's bike

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