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07-08-2010, 1:00 PM MNight-hawk tailwhip Joined on 07-07-2010 minneapolis MN Posts 14 82 GL500I: shock link -to frame- mounting bolt... won't Budge "mounting Bolt" and shock link rotate freely together... the bolt seems to me to be stuck to the shock link from inside. I haven't found a very comprehensive parts diagram to show how the actual parts in the shock link to frame mount are actually put together and how they fit together. So I'm wondering if anyone can tell me what i'm dealing with here.... I've used a lot of 'PB blaster' and have had towels soaking around the grease seal areas, and "hit" it for quite a while over a few days with a 3/8" impact driver and even tried prying against the kickstand portion of the frame with various objects to try to push/drive it out. Thinking i might need to try pulling/pushing and twisting the bolt at the same time... It's at an angle that I can't hit the end of the bolt straight on to push it straight through without an offset peice of solid iron.  I tried driving/hitting it with some other objects but couldn't get a good enough angle to drive it straight out...... from the diagrams i have seen for this assembly , it looks to me like the bolt in the diagram is mounted from the opposite side that it is actually mounted on my motorcycle right now. That wouldn't make sense there's nowhere for the bolt to push out the other side (because part of the bike's frame would be in the way.) I am probly reading the (Clymer) diagram wrong.   1982 GL500I Silverwing Interstate 45K+ miles 1985 CR 250 2 stroke    Report

07-08-2010, 2:51 PM SamsGL650I Joined on 05-30-2010 Annville, PA Posts 93 Re: 82 GL500I: shock link -to frame- mounting bolt... won't Budge The mount bolt to frame takes a 14mm socket. It threads through the shock link to a 14mm (outside diameter) NUT that must be secured with another 14mm socket (with extension) , or by angling and holding with a 14mm wrench,-- otherwise it simply turns with the bolt. 1983 Honda GL650I Kawasaki EN500LTD 1st Bike: @1974 Honda CL 175    Report

07-08-2010, 5:59 PM DaveF Joined on 06-11-2008 Lawrenceville, GA Posts 1,232 Re: 82 GL500I: shock link -to frame- mounting bolt... won't Budge See this thread and this thread. Good luck.  This can be a tough one. My Web Site 1982 GL500 1983 GL650    Report

07-08-2010, 7:13 PM bri-guy-ga Joined on 06-04-2008 Powder Springs, GA Posts 702 Re: 82 GL500I: shock link -to frame- mounting bolt... won't Budge Mnight, unfortunately I just went through the same thing and ended up ordering a new lower shock mount arm and cut out the original bolt.  It might be your only option, sorry. 1982 GL500i (currently being rebuilt from ground up) NO! Try not. Do or do not do. There is no try - Yoda    Report

07-10-2010, 6:28 PM MNight-hawk tailwhip Joined on 07-07-2010 minneapolis MN Posts 14 Re: 82 GL500I: shock link -to frame- mounting bolt... won't Budge 1982 GL500I That information all helps a lot, thank you; especially for the links to the threads addressing this issue... I have decided i should deffinitely "re-do" my actual shock-"unit" - or pay the local honda shop to do it- after reading those threads (being as it may not have been serviced for 28 years.) Also, I didn't even give a thought to using quality grease for all the suspension bushings and what-not until i read the threads attached to the links posted above. I will be sure to pick up some quality stuff when the time comes. I have also been reminded of the fact that I still need to clean and lube the rest of the suspension parts. I dont have any more questions right at this point.   I really dont want to have to cut through that bolt, but maybe I will HAVE to. It is my goal -in life-to pound this bolt out. I don't see a space for me to cut the bolt without cutting right through the actual shock link, or at a minimum, hitting the grease seals with the saw blade while i cut...       I suspect this bolt has been in there for 28 years.   I would rather continue to "soak" it in PB blaster and find an offset peice of iron to fit against the end of the bolt so i can hit it with a hammer and see if that will knock it loose instead of drilling through my kickstand mount and using a drift(although drilling through and attching a drift to the end of the bolt would allow some real whalloping with a "sledge-hammer".) ... I will maybe have to use a drift to drive it out completely through the shock link once i get it loose anyway so I suppose i should just start-in with drilling a hole in the kickstand mount and save myself  a lot of time.... By the way, I have found a trailer hitch that actually fits in the space between the frame and the tip of the bolt so i can butt the side of the hitche's ball bolt against the tip of the bolt I am trying to drive out, and then smack the end of the hitch so it drives the bolt out at a relatively straight angle...      looks like I'm gonna have to drill a hole in the kickstand mount tho. My grandpa pointed out that drilling the hole will make it a lot easier to drive the bolt out in the future -even if it isn't quite so stubborn next time.  As it is, I have towels wrapped around between the grease seals and the shock link (on both sides of course) and am keeping them moist with PB blaster-in an attempt to simulate soaking. One week into this escapade, I continue to spray between the seals and the shock link and smack the end of the bolt with a trailer hitch and like a 3 or 4 lb hammer. Then "hit" the the other end of the bolt with a 3/8" impact driver (on forward and reverse "drilling" modes.) *I could probably use a more powerful impact tool with a bigger air hose but i don't have one*  I am having to use a "swivel jointed adapter" on the impact driver that i am using to be able to reach the head of the bolt from a pefectly staright angle- in an effort to not round the corners on the bolt head with the jarring of the impact driver tool. I'm not too concerned about the low power of the 3/8" impact driver and it's wimpy air hose or about the loss of kinetic energy as it is transfered through the jointed adapter because this is more of an effort to shake and vibrate the PB further into the sleeve and bolt than to actually move this stuck bolt . .... by the way,   Using a breaker bar with 1/2" drive socket, 14mm of course, i seem to have gotten the bolt to turn slightly and there seems to be more side-to-side play after that, but it's hard to say if thats just wishful thinking, I may have just bent the frame while screwing around with a crow bar. Guess it's time to start planning the kickstand-mount drilling operation.   1982 GL500I Silverwing Interstate 45K+ miles 1985 CR 250 2 stroke    Report

07-10-2010, 9:13 PM DaveF Joined on 06-11-2008 Lawrenceville, GA Posts 1,232 Re: 82 GL500I: shock link -to frame- mounting bolt... won't Budge The suspension linkages show up on ebay fairly often - it is not necessary to buy this new.  Accordingly, my preference would be to cut the linkage if needed as opposed to drilling the kickstand mount. Keep us posted. My Web Site 1982 GL500 1983 GL650    Report

07-10-2010, 11:35 PM MNight-hawk tailwhip Joined on 07-07-2010 minneapolis MN Posts 14 82 GL500I~drilled a hole in kick mount, using a lag bolt to drive out a "stubborn" link-to-frame mounting bolt ... I'm too cheap to buy a new linkage. I just don't want to cut it for some stupid reason... probly cuz i have nothing better to do with my time. I drilled the hole in the kickstand-mount in order to access the tip of bolt i'm trying to drive out It was fun to drill it. It looks nice and functional (to me). And I hope the kickstand mount peice doesn't bend in half later I  don't think it will.  I have 2 machine bolts that are the same size-with a mostly thread-less shaft*I don't know what kind of bolt this would be classified as* (they are just a little longer than its gonna take to drive this bolt out and a little thinner *maybe like 1/16" or 1/8" of an inch thinner* than the bolt it will be driving out. One seems like it is made of harder metal than the other-but neither of them have a number rating so they must be pretty soft.  There's a divett on the end of each of the machine bolts-each one has a different size divvet than the other.-...   I am hoping to use one as back-up and use the harder one to drive out the (shcok link-to-frame "mounting") bolt...  I think the divvet will "cup" the end of the link-to-frame bolt  well -beacause the link-to-frame bolt is rounded out on the end- which will hopefully help keep it in place and displace the impact energy a little more evenly than a rounded-out or flat end bolt.   I am leaving the nut on the end of the bolt that i'm driving out so that hopefully it will also help steady the impact of the bolt being used to drive it out; Hopefully the bolts I'm using to drive out the link to frame bolt wont just splinter and mushroom out. If so, i will have to try something different.I want to start with a metal softer than the bolt i am driving out anyway. The hole i drilled fits the lag bolts i am using almost perfectly, so that they are held in line with the bolt i am driving out and they don't wiggle around in the hole very much at all. If this works and the -kick mount doesn't bend in half- I will have to keep the 2 bolts for later use. I don't know how to post pics on here so if anyone is interested in seeing the hole i drilled u will have to ask me to PM them to you or something. 1982 GL500I Silverwing Interstate 45K+ miles 1985 CR 250 2 stroke    Report

07-11-2010, 2:14 AM Eurovee. Joined on 12-29-2006 Euroland Posts 513 Re: 82 GL500I~drilled a hole in kick mount, using a lag bolt to drive out a "stubborn" link-to-frame mounting bolt Looks like you`re going with the `percussion` method of bolt removal. Be careful. The part of the frame the bolt goes through (bracket/lugs) isn`t made of a particularly thick gauge of steel and swinging a ferkin` great lump hammer at the bolt may deform/bend/twist those brackets. You don`t want that...... The bolt needs to be in good shape to push through the bearing sleeve. If the end gets deformed by the drift it won`t be able to be extracted and you`ll be in a whole new world of problems then.... I`d use heat (a lot of heat) + moderate hammerage first. If that didn`t work i`d agree with DaveF and chop the sucker off with an angle grinder and source another one. The worst one i ever dealt with was during a frame-up resto, so i was able to turn the frame upside down to work on it. Being able to see what`s what makes a hell of a difference. There`s just enough room to get a blade between the dust caps and frame to cut the bolt off, but trying to do this while working on your back while sawing just above your head with bits of rust/dirt/crap falling on your face will be a nightmare. CX650 Eurosprout CX500 Eurospurt GL650 Silverthing CX/GL 500 CX-periment 24 years and 140,000 miles a CXian...    Report

07-11-2010, 7:03 PM MNight-hawk tailwhip Joined on 07-07-2010 minneapolis MN Posts 14 82 GL500I-shock link-to-frame mounting bolt is "stuck"-drilled hole in kickstand mount to drive it out ya I will probly have to cut it out unless i figure out a way to hold the bike stationary, she is really stuck in there...     Since I don't want to pay for parts and since i already have the hole drilled in the kickstand mount: I am now heavily considering leaning the whole bike on some supports on the ground and placing reinforcements behind the frame where the bolt is being driven out (so the frame doesn't bend when i pound out the bolt.) I think there is a thread on here about that. gonna go try to find it and size up the situation  .... 1982 GL500I Silverwing Interstate 45K+ miles 1985 CR 250 2 stroke    Report

07-12-2010, 6:35 AM Randall-in-Mpls Joined on 07-06-2007 Minneapolis, MN Posts 2,629 Re: 82 GL500I-shock link-to-frame mounting bolt is "stuck"-drilled hole in kickstand mount to drive it out Is it possible to get a pipe clamp around that, to press it out?  Pressing will result in a lot less distortion than hammering. R '78 CX500 - Black Maggot --> Green Grub / Yellow Grub / Red Grub ???    Report

07-12-2010, 10:50 AM MNight-hawk tailwhip Joined on 07-07-2010 minneapolis MN Posts 14 Re: 82 GL500I-shock link-to-frame mounting bolt is "stuck"- possible to do the job with a pipe clamp? hmmmmmmmmmmmmm...  very interesting. I think that just might work. ... Actually I thought of using a c-clamp but dismissed the idea because i thought that there was no way to get it to push the bolt straight out... but the previous post about the pipe clamp gave me an idea to use two c-clamps and place an object over the tip of the bolt. Then place two of the c-clamp ends on that object. -  Then put some objects pressed against the frame right next to the head of the bolt and use that as a base for the other two ends of the c-calmps.... If the seal of rust on the bolt to sleeve is broken by the clamps, maybe I will be able to drive the rest of the bolt out with a hammer. I am also gonna hit the tip of the bolt (head-on) with a pneumatic chissel hammer thingy*with a flat 'hammer' "bit" attached* -I don't know the proper names for that tool-  to  hopefully loosen the rust bond and vibrate some more PB into the corroded area. ... AN ADDITIONAL POIN TO THIS POST: I suppose a pipe clamp would work better. Looks like there is room for one. Maybe I will track one down. ... 1982 GL500I Silverwing Interstate 45K+ miles 1985 CR 250 2 stroke    Report

07-12-2010, 1:35 PM Randall-in-Mpls Joined on 07-06-2007 Minneapolis, MN Posts 2,629 Re: 82 GL500I-shock link-to-frame mounting bolt is "stuck"- possible to do the job with a pipe clamp? Since you already have the hole in the stand mount, use the clamp to press your drift-bolt against the swing arm bolt.  (If it bends, get a proper pin punch.)  I used my bench vise and some sockets to press out the linkage collars, and it worked like a dream. I think you may need to press it all the way out, even after it starts to move.  Just move up to progressively longer pins. R '78 CX500 - Black Maggot --> Green Grub / Yellow Grub / Red Grub ???    Report

07-12-2010, 2:43 PM MNight-hawk tailwhip Joined on 07-07-2010 minneapolis MN Posts 14 82 GL500I-shock link-to-frame mounting bolt is "stuck"-   ... I haven't acquired a clamp yet ... Heating it up is probly the way to go like the other person said on here. ...but I think the heat will destroy the rubber and I don't want to replace the bushings if i don't have to cuz i'm a cheapskate.     I'm soaking the shock link to frame mount in an empty windshield washer fluid jug filled with pb blaster.(bought a 128oz jug for 20$ ) I am pretty decided on "stripping" the bike and laying it on it's side.... actually, I'll probly just take the gas tank off.  Gonna let it soak in this PB for a while. Hope this PB isn't too flammable.   Update to post:  ... been soaking it for something like 3 days in blaster. Blaster seems to lose a lot of it's styrafoam-eating ability after sitting out -according to my UN-scientific test- ...but I'm hoping it's penetrant qualities are still at work... I am opting to not use a clamp to press the bolt out at this point. Partially because i dont have one... and by the way. The surface area of the frame that is around the head of the bolt i am driving out is not flat (due to the centerstand mount that is welded to the frame right there.) There's not quite enough room to fit a socket over the head/washer of the bolt.(It is a built-in washer type of  a bolt head. Seems to be kind of "countersunk" or "lug-head"  where its seated in the frame by the way.) Update to post.... Finally got the bolt to move a bit with a breaker bar. After hitting it with a 3lb hammer I am now able to get my fingernail in between the head of the bolt and the frame it's attatched to... By the way, The tip of the pivot-mounting bolt i am driving out doesn't seem to be mushrooming too badly at this point. The bolt  has the number '10' on it by the way, or is it 'IO' or '01'? ...It's actuially supposed to be a "ten" tho, right?... Whatever the case, it is a hard bolt just like the other thread(s) about the '82 monoshock state(s)...      ...Frame / brackets or whatever still look pretty straight (to me.)  ... I am considering laying the motorcycle down (horizontally)and setting up a support behind/under/around the head of the bolt so i can pound it out. I kind of like the idea of being able to turn the bolt while i pound it tho... Update to post:  .... Bolt now turns easily with a 90-100 PSI 3/8" drive impact driver using skinny coiled air hose and has been driven out a "smidgen" further. Dosn't seem to want to travel much farther right now,  so,  I am going to tap it back the other direction on the head of the bolt once in a while between 3lb hammer swinging sessions and continue to soak it in PB blaster...  And with the freeplay that I'm getting out of this link mount now, I need to be careful not to damage the grease seals and/or bend the frame's link-mount-brackets. I may have to lay it on it's side yet but i'm gonna try a few more rounds of 'PB blaster' soaking/ 3lb hammer driving. Also, made an effort to carefully pry the grease seals over to get some pb sprayed onto the entrance to the sleeve there to hopefully allow more pb to penetrate there. Still using the same tub of pb but have added a little fresh pb a few times. .... Now that the bolt has moved a smidge and decided it doesnt want to go any further I am starting to lose patience 1982 GL500I Silverwing Interstate 45K+ miles 1985 CR 250 2 stroke    Report

07-16-2010, 6:51 PM MNight-hawk tailwhip Joined on 07-07-2010 minneapolis MN Posts 14 Re: 82 GL500I-shock link-to-frame mounting bolt is finally out It is out. Thanks for the help ya'll.  ...13 days, 3lb hammer. soaked in pb. hole drilled in kickmount. tapped back and forth to work in the pb penetrant. Frame looks plenty straight down there still and bushings seem to be in good shape. Go HONDA . There's still liquid shaking around in my shock unit and it has been holding air fine. Maybe someone did do work on this suspension at some point. Since I am low on funds I am opting not to service the shock unit at this point. If I decide to later I can re"grease" stuff with antisieze or whatever while I have the shock out. 1982 GL500I Silverwing Interstate 45K+ miles 1985 CR 250 2 stroke    Report

07-20-2010, 10:08 AM RichNCT Joined on 03-02-2006 Connecticut, USA Posts 3,463 Re: 82 GL500I-shock link-to-frame mounting bolt is finally out A few random thoughts: The oil in the rear shock can be changed without too much difficulty and no disassembly (once the shock is out of the frame). Fresh oil might add longetivity to the shock, and would certainly improve the performance. Turn the shock upside down in a press and press/pump the old oil out. Remount the shock rightside up and press/pump the correct amount (?) of new oil in. I dont think a pipe clamp would help much in these cases, I have never used a pipe clamp with much pressing power, poor/small threads, bending/flexing pipe, breakage, etc. What about "MouseMilk" as a penetrant? I have not used it, but for Turbo wastegates it's said to be superior in freeing them up. Costly I'm sure, but when nothing else works? Where can we get it Tim? Refueling on The James Bay Road, 2009 Born to be relatively wild (for a grampa x 3) GL650I, CX650E, CX650T    Report

07-20-2010, 12:19 PM Shep Joined on 01-30-2007 UK.2x1980CX500A Posts 7,647 Brake Fluid/Acetone Penetrant Been using this, http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=575 50/50 Brake fluid and Acetone(Nail Varnish remover) It rocks PS Just used some on an old set of carbs + heat to knock out(No easy out) a slow speed jet.Freed it up so it fell out when the carbs were turned over and tapped a couple of times. My Music http://www.reverbnation.com/pauldouglas/ Join Just In Case :) http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/ Id quot circumiret, circumveniat    Report

07-20-2010, 9:18 PM MNight-hawk tailwhip Joined on 07-07-2010 minneapolis MN Posts 14 Re: 82 GL500I-compress oil out of shock Thank you RichNCT- that sounds awesome that you can press the oil out of the shock like that, think i saw something about that on another threrad on here and i think it said you can just suck new oil back in, maybe i'm dreaming though. I don't have access to a press right now and I'm too concerned about just getting it back together and running (since it's been apart for about 3 1/2 weeks now)...   ...It should be done though. I'll ask my uncle if he's got a press like that.... '85 CR250 Dirtbike is out at his house anyway. I'll have to make a note of that acetone/brake fluid wicked mix in the post above. ( the pb blaster did seem to do the trick pretty well though.)              Finally got the big bench vice out in order to get the last two collars out of the shock arm.and once that's complete the rear suspension dissasembly will finally be complete -except for the shock unit (which I don't want to actually take apart.) Couldn't have done it without ya'll     thanks for the help! 1982 GL500I Silverwing Interstate 45K+ miles 1985 CR 250 2 stroke    Report

Honda CX500 & G... » CX500 GL500 Tra... » Technical Help ... » 82 GL500I: shock link -to frame- mounting bolt... won't Budge

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