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General Discussion
Started by bobbrumby at 07-18-2010 8:04 PM. Topic has 6 replies.
  
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 07-18-2010, 8:04 PM
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bobbrumby
Joined on 12-30-2007
Australia
Posts 80
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electronic gurus (electrolytic tank rust removal)
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i was reading up on rust removal using electrolisis using a 10 amp car charger. only problem being is that i only have a trickle charger and an old car battery. I was thinking maybe someone would know a circuit that could connect in the charger once it got below 12v and then once it charged to 14v disconnect the charger and connnect the electrolisis wires. Cheers guys.
83 cx500 custom (Australian Spec) 70,000km
05 vtr250 20,000km (Daily Ride)
82 xr200
04 xr400r
ct110 postie bike
"you meet the nicest people on a honda"
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07-18-2010, 8:49 PM
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Blindstitch
 
Joined on 03-14-2009
Greenfield Wisconsin
Posts 9,863
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Re: electronic gurus (electrolytic tank rust removal)
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07-18-2010, 9:38 PM
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raulbajamx
Joined on 02-04-2009
San Diego Ca/Tijuana Baja MX
Posts 281
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Re: electronic gurus (electrolytic tank rust removal)
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Ken French's Electrolysis Setup:
Back to Clay's Motorcycle page
Tried out electrolysis on my rust fuel tank and she cleaned right up. For those of you who are on a budget it will cost you next to nothing to clean your tank. First of all you will need a plastic 5 gallon bucket, add 1/2 cup of Arm and Hammer Washing Soda. This is important it’s Washing Soda not baking soda (see note 1 below). Fill the bucket with water and mix it well. Pull the tank and drain the fuel. Remove the petcock and wash out the tank with lots of water. Fashion a cover to block the petcock orifice. I used a strip of 1/8" aluminum and used an old inner tube as a gasket. I set the tank on a piece of carpet and blocked it up to get it as level as possible. I then filled the tank with the washing soda solution. Then I took a coat hanger and fashion the sacrificial anode. You say what???? Ok this is the trickiest part of the procedure.
A little background on how electrolysis works (see actual photos below):
Its very simple really. As current passes through an object it moves from negative to positive, so what you are doing is passing a current through the rust on the tank, which breaks its bond, and the rust then flows and attaches itself to the positive charge on the sacrificial anode. Or at least it releases the rust from the tank and floats around in the washing soda solution. The idea with the sacrificial anode is to insure that it does not touch the tank anywhere, you must insure it only come in contact with the washing soda solution or you will have a direct short.
For my project I found a nice little plastic cap and drilled two 1/8" holes in it about 1" apart. I then took the coat hanger and bent it over and over until I had four loops on one end that spread about 1" when grouped together (see fig. 1 below). Think about the business end of a fork that you eat with, that’s what it should look like. Then about 4" back from the business end of the fork make a 90-degree bend in the two wires and run them up through the plastic cap. Put the sacrificial anode into the tank and spin it around to insure the anode is not hitting anywhere on the tank (no short circuits) (see fig 2 below). Then using a 12-volt battery charger hook the positive lead to the sacrificial anode and the negative lead to the fuel tank. I used the mounting flange that sits under the seat (see figs 3 and 4 below). Let her cook for several days. Mine took three days. I pulled the anode twice a day and cleaned it with a wire brush. I have a small battery charger so it may take less time with a larger charger. Anyway my tank is back on and this morning I rode her into work and she never skipped a beat.
Update: Some of you have asked what did you coat the tank with to stop further rusting? Nothing. Its bare metal. Some of you guys have suggested two ways of coating the tank. 1. Use phosphoric acid and slosh it around to coat the tank. 2. Use POR-15, I have heard this is the stuff to use. I was also told to stay away from Kreem. The Suzuki T-500 I own had a fuel tank coated in Kreem and it is crap, so I would agree.
-Ken for questions, email me at cfsboy@sbcglobal.net
Note 1: ARM & HAMMER® Super Washing Soda is 100% sodium carbonate and is used as a laundry booster and general household cleaner. ARM & HAMMER® Baking Soda is 100% sodium bicarbonate and has a myriad of household cleaning, personal care, and deodorizing uses, as well as being a leavening agent.
Note from Clay: The photos are mine. I used this method on rather rusty Kawasaki tank I had, and it worked wonderfully. I lined this tank with the Yamaha brand tank rusr remover/protector (about $14.00 at my local dealer) and it is holding up well.
Figure 1 Figure 2
may this help no pics ,sorry goim
i think i need training wheels on gl650i
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07-19-2010, 1:05 AM
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Lambykin
Joined on 09-14-2008
Burlington, Ontario
Posts 1,076
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Re: electronic gurus (electrolytic tank rust removal)
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Thanks for the instructions and the link. Heck, I should try this on the CX500 tank I have that needs the same treatment. I've got a nice car charger/engine starter that would do the trick nicely, though I won't need to use the 200-amp setting. :-)
1982 GL500 Interstate
1981 CX500 Custom
1985 Pontiac Fiero (2 of 'em)
2005 Honda Accord EX-L V6 Coupe
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07-19-2010, 6:41 AM
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marshallf3
Joined on 01-12-2009
Oklahoma City
Posts 1,540
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Re: electronic gurus (electrolytic tank rust removal)
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You can used an old 12V battery for all it matters, you just need a voltage potential difference between the tank and the electrode. A higher voltage would help so putting two batteries in series will speed the process.
Even if you don't have a battery charger an old AC adapter that's left over from something will work but it should be at least a 9V one capable of several hundred miliamps.
I hit the thrift shops at times and every now and then I get lucky and find stray 12V plug in wall adapters for 0.50 - $1 each. Most are capable of 1A and make great trickle chargers just by adding a couple of clip leads in place of the existing plug. You won't have the luxury of an automatic cutoff so I wouldn't leave one on for more than a day every now and then.
1979 CX500C
░░░░░░░
96 & 98 GTP, 78 Chevy G30 400V8, 78 Gremlin 304V8, 65 Barracuda 273V8
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07-19-2010, 12:10 PM
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Shep
Joined on 01-30-2007
UK.2x1980CX500A
Posts 7,647
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Re: electronic gurus (electrolytic tank rust removal)
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07-19-2010, 6:52 PM
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marshallf3
Joined on 01-12-2009
Oklahoma City
Posts 1,540
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Re: electronic gurus (electrolytic tank rust removal)
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Citric acid works, phosphoric is the best though although it's dangerous to handle and I'd dilute this at least 10:1 if not double that:
http://www.dudadiesel.com/all_chemicals.php
1979 CX500C
░░░░░░░
96 & 98 GTP, 78 Chevy G30 400V8, 78 Gremlin 304V8, 65 Barracuda 273V8
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Honda CX500 & G... » CX500 GL500 Tra... » General Discuss... » electronic gurus (electrolytic tank rust removal)
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