Honda CX500 & GL500 Forum

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05-10-2008, 8:53 AM Exothermia Joined on 04-18-2008 Posts 116 Fork seal replacement Well my forks had been low on oil and I noticed after I changed my tires yesterday that they have about run dry. I can hear the springs squeak inside the forks and they are very mushy. So I guess I had better replace the fork seals and fill with fork oil. I just have a couple of questions. I'm planning to get my Dad to help since he's been riding and working on bikes all his life, and I've never done these before, so how much time will this take to get done? Also, I noticed when I had the front axle off that on the front axle holder (the half-moon shaped piece that clamps the axle in place to the fork), the bolts the stick out of the fork for this piece were covered in some kind of oil, as if the fork oil had been leaking out around them. Then immediately after I put my wheels back on I noticed the forks were squeaky and had no oil. Is it normal or possible for oil to leak out via these bolts and if so does that mean my forks are shot or can this be fixed? The forks have no rust and they are otherwise nice looking so I don't want to have to replace them if I don't have to.    Report

05-10-2008, 10:28 AM Abes_CW Joined on 04-17-2007 saskatoon Posts 3,036 Re: Fork seal replacement: Update with photos 2nd question first, yes fork oil can leak out from the around the bottom bolts.  At the bottom of the fork is an allen bolt, 6mm.  The manual recommends using a locking agent on it, most here don't recommend it.  When I did my seals last year I reinstalled without agent, and one was fine, the other did a very slow drip.  I'd get two or three spots worth overnight.  I redid them again last weekend (one had no leak on the bottom but the seal didn't seat first time, the other seal was fine but was leaking at the bolt), and when I reinstalled I used some anerobic gasket sealant on the threads of the bolt in lieu of a locktite.  A week on and 500km later, no leak, and it shouldn't be too difficult to break free for the next time. I'd say about 2-3 hours for the change.  On mine, the most time was spent on disassembly, not actually changing the seal.  You don't have to remove fairings et al to get to your triple so it should be pretty simple.  Rob Davis' page is excellent for instructions.  Be prepared for difficulty in removing the allen bolts.  An impact driver may be required.  Nothing worse than having it all torn apart and realizing you don't have the right tool to finish the job. Centre stand, jack under the engine to get the front wheel off the ground.  I use a short length of 2x8 lumber between the jack and the engine to evenly distribute the weight.  Remove your brake caliper, and bungee it back so it doesn't hang free.  Remove the speedo cable.  Take off those 1/2 moon thingies.  Mine were marked with punch dots to show which was which, right fork 2 dots, left 1, with dots on both the fork and bracket.  Your wheel should drop out.  My GL I had to deflate my tire to clear the fender. Remove fender. Remove air balancer crossover hose if you have the air suspension (it's at the top of the forks) Loosen the spring cap at the top of the fork.  Don't remove it, just break it free.  The triple will act as a vise to help with this, you want to try to avoid using a vise on the fork tubes when off the bike. (or be carefull, use soft jaws) Loosen the upper and lower pinch bolts on the triple tree on each side.  You may want to note your fork position in the triple, so when you put 'er back together you have the same ride height if desired. The forks should drop out the bottom of the tree. Remove the fork cap, carefully as it is spring loaded and under pressure.  You don't want it hitting you in the eye or have pieces inside fly to the mystery places where they will never be found.  I think it is the same place odd socks go from the dryer.  Press down as you loosen!   Notice I use a rag to assist, same goes for reinstall, saves your hands big time. (04/09 edit) After the cap is off, you will find a short spring, a spacer (washer type thing), and a long spring.  Note the orientation of the spring coils they will be tighter on one end, for later reinstalation.  Remove these.  They will have gross grey oil on them with a pudding consistency likely!  Wipe them clean.  Pump the fork a few times to get as much gunk out as you can.  I left mine inverted for 1/2 hour to drip out. So far so good. Remove the allen bolt at the bottom.  Don't strip it!  Use the right tool. If you are holding the fork upside down, when the bolt comes out a piston with the rebound spring will fall out.  Note the orientation for reinstallation. Remove the dust cap, carefully prise up with a flat screw driver. There you will find the dreaded circlip/snap ring.  This to me was the biggest PITA.  Again having the right tool makes this short work. With the circlip out,  IIRC there is another bushing to remove.   grab the slider with one hand, the fork lower in the other,  compress then rapidly extend them.  This will pop your old seal out, and the slider will come free for cleaning.  Note the condition of the fork slider bushing, it's a 2" collar at the end.  If it's excessively worn it should also be replaced (copper surface showing over 3/4 of it, it normally has a teflon type surface). all the parts lined up. With everything clean, it's time to put back together.  Position the new seal, with the numbers facing up, centre it in place.  Guys here bought a 1 1/2 inch pvc pipe fitting to place over the seal to tap on to drive the seal.   I positioned my old seal on top of the bushing on top of the new and used that to drive it down.  Worked great.  You have to get it down far enough so the grove the circlip fits in is exposed. Circlip in, seated in it's groove and your ready to reassemble!  Dust cap on,  Piston with rebound spring in, put some sealant on the allen bolt and reinstall and tighten.  It won't thread in unless you have the fork in an extended position. Drop in the large spring, spacer and top spring.  accurately measure the correct amount of fork oil for your model (listed on Rob's page).  You need the same amount for both forks.  If you spill some out you'll have to empty and start again to ensure they are balanced. Extend the fork, take the top cap, I use a rag between it and my hand, and compress the springs down to tighten the cap in. I put the fork lower between my feet, hold up the slider with my left hand and push down, turn in with my right.  Left hand keeps the fork extended so you don't have to compress the springs far to install the cap, much easier! Your fork is now together, repeat and rinse with the other, and put 'em back on the bike!  Note the line at the top of the fork.  For the GL, this line goes at the top of the top clamp in the triple.  You can push them up farther to lower the front end, make sure both forks are the same height. Don't do them both simultaneously, so you have a complete one as a referrence if you forget where all the bits went. I am not a great mechanic, with you dad helping you it should be a piece of cake.  If I can do it anyone can (of course I had to do it twice....   Rob Davis' link: http://www.elsham.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/cx500/front_forks_seals/   1983 GL650i Had 4 CX/GL's at one point this year, down to one, next spring is another adventure! age 38 (29 plus tax)    Report

05-10-2008, 12:18 PM Exothermia Joined on 04-18-2008 Posts 116 Re: Fork seal replacement Yikes! This is going to be complicated. Just what I needed. The more work I do to my bike, the more work I find I need to do. Oh well. Thanks for the info, I'll get the seals ordered and hopefully do them next week or weekend.    Report

05-10-2008, 2:07 PM Abes_CW Joined on 04-17-2007 saskatoon Posts 3,036 Re: Fork seal replacement It's not that hard, again if I can do it, you can, especially with your mechanic dad on hand.  It's a few steps, but they are all simple.  Just have a plan for that allen bolt if stuck and get a proper snapring tool.  I bought a cheapie and it didn't work well, ended up using one prong of it and a small flat screwdriver.  Otherwise, it's like lego, take it apart, put it back to gether. If your stuck, you know where we are! Darren edit:  You wont believe the difference in the ride when you are done.  It will be worth it, trust me.   1983 GL650i Had 4 CX/GL's at one point this year, down to one, next spring is another adventure! age 38 (29 plus tax)    Report

05-10-2008, 4:54 PM Exothermia Joined on 04-18-2008 Posts 116 Re: Fork seal replacement Thanks for the encouragement. If it weren't for this forum who knows what condition my CX would be in. I'm just upset now I have to wait till I get it fixed before I can ride again, it's way too mushy for me to ride at the moment.    Report

05-10-2008, 5:41 PM fll1441 Joined on 11-06-2006 Fort Lauderdale, FL Posts 976 Re: Fork seal replacement I also thought it sounded very complicated before I did mine. After doing it, I agree with Abes. It wasn't that difficult. I found a parts diagram from the service manual helpful to make sure I put everything back in the correct order. Take your time and follow the instructions step by step. 1982 CX500 Custom    Report

05-11-2008, 4:21 AM Shep Joined on 01-30-2007 UK.2x1980CX500A Posts 7,647 Re: Fork seal replacement Don't use cheap fork seals though as they are not much good. http://tinyurl.com/45wwhe Fully Guaranteed 'OEM' Quality Natural Rubber seals (Not cheap silicone). These are the type you want. My Music http://www.reverbnation.com/pauldouglas/ Join Just In Case :) http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/ Id quot circumiret, circumveniat    Report

05-11-2008, 8:09 AM Exothermia Joined on 04-18-2008 Posts 116 Re: Fork seal replacement What about the Pro-Moly-leakfree-something-or-others from Dennis Kirk? Other people reported them to work better than OEM. Can anybody else verify the best fork seals? I don't want to have to do this again in a year. Here's a link- they definitely aren't cheap. http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=149886&store=Main&catId=416&productId=p149892&leafCatId=41606&mmyId=12260    Report

05-11-2008, 1:27 PM Abes_CW Joined on 04-17-2007 saskatoon Posts 3,036 Re: Fork seal replacement I just went with Mr Honda's stuff, but the dennis kirk price isn't bad considering you get both the seals and new dust caps/wipers. 1983 GL650i Had 4 CX/GL's at one point this year, down to one, next spring is another adventure! age 38 (29 plus tax)    Report

05-11-2008, 1:45 PM wridley Joined on 06-28-2007 Didsbury, AB, Canada Posts 246 Re: Fork seal replacement I just finished doing mine this weekend and the cost of seals and dust covers from Honda was $37.00 with no shipping required. Major improvement. Willy 1983 CX650E !! Newest addition 1982 CX500C 1982 CM450A 1981 GL500I (wife)    Report

05-11-2008, 2:22 PM Exothermia Joined on 04-18-2008 Posts 116 Re: Fork seal replacement Today my brother offered an interesting option and I thought I'd ask you wise gentlemen about it. I explained that all the leakage I could see was coming out of the bottom of the forks and not at the top at the fork seals/wipers. He asked why didn't I just remove whatever is in the bottom to allow them to drain, open up the tops and refill them with fluid and make sure I properly seal the bottom this time so it doesn't leak. There is really no leaking going on at the top fork seals so if it would be possible to fix the leak at the bottom and refill them without having to fully disassemble and replace the seals, which aren't leaking, that would make the job much simpler! Is this possible with my forks? They are the earlier, non air forks.    Report

05-11-2008, 4:58 PM PWG in Lowgap NC Joined on 01-07-2008 Minutes from the Blue Ridge Parkway Posts 2,380 Re: Fork seal replacement I feel not qualified to answer this question as I am neither a gentleman, nor am I wise.  But what the hell.  I see no reason why you shouldn't do it that way.  It is probably just a washer on a drain plug that needs to be replaced.  Good Luck with it. 06 Suzuki S50 daily ride CX500c Honda Magna BC age 72    Report

05-11-2008, 6:04 PM Broncoman2000 Joined on 09-27-2006 Raleigh, NC Posts 132 Re: Fork seal replacement I dont remember anything that could leak from the bottom of the forks on my 79 when I replaced the seals. Mine were obcviously leaking from the seal, as I could watch the oil drip down every bump I hit when it went out. The job is simple, the only hard thing was the damn allen bolt in the bottom. I had to use an impact gun on mine to break it free. I used no loc-tite on mine and have had no leaks. Also, I used a torque wrench when installing it, so no impact wrench next time. 1979 Honda CX500 Custom 42,000 miles and rising, thanks to Dick in Raleigh    Report

05-11-2008, 7:34 PM instructorpilot Joined on 12-15-2007 Orlando FL Posts 591 Re: Fork seal replacement I have a suzuki special tool that holds the dampening rod in place while I undo the screw on the bottom. I had gasket washers on the bottom bolts though. I just replaced them with aluminum crush washers. I have no leaks what so ever. Al A whole bunch of old junk    Report

05-11-2008, 7:48 PM Exothermia Joined on 04-18-2008 Posts 116 Re: Fork seal replacement I'm afraid I just don't know enough about forks to ask the right questions here. All I know is this. There is no oil leaking out of the wipers on my forks. When I took my front axle out to change my tire I could see that oil had been leaking profusely from the two bolts that the front axle holder bolts onto, on the bottom of the forks - they were covered in fork oil. I don't know if the other side had been leaking as well. What I would like to know is, can I fix these leaks in the bottom of my forks and refill my forks without tearing my forks apart and replacing the fork seals which aren't leaking.    Report

05-13-2008, 9:47 AM RichNCT Joined on 03-02-2006 Connecticut, USA Posts 3,463 Re: Fork seal replacement Trying the drain/refill and reseal the bottom allen bolt is worth a try, you might get lucky, the cost and time is small enough to make it worth trying.  However, if you recently purchased the bike, the PO may have had leaking seals until most of the fork oil was gone and then cleaned it up for the sale.  Check for corrosion or pitting on the fork surfaces where the seals travel (not too important up higher, except for aesthetics).  If you have more than VERY MINIMAL pitting in the seal travel area, new seals will leak in a short while too. Refueling on The James Bay Road, 2009 Born to be relatively wild (for a grampa x 3) GL650I, CX650E, CX650T    Report

05-13-2008, 3:40 PM Exothermia Joined on 04-18-2008 Posts 116 Re: Fork seal replacement There isn't any corrosion on the fork tubes and it doesn't look like there were leaks up there. The weather's been pretty sucky but hopefully by this weekend I'll give it a shot and if it doesn't work, and the fork seals leak, I'll just have to order some and do the whole job. We'll see.    Report

05-15-2008, 6:46 PM Randall-in-Mpls Joined on 07-06-2007 Minneapolis, MN Posts 2,629 Re: Fork seal replacement  Exothermia wrote: I could see that oil had been leaking profusely from the two bolts that the front axle holder bolts onto, on the bottom of the forks It's not those bolts that are leaking.  It's the Allen bolt.  There is (or should be) a copper crush washer on each Allen bolt that needs to be annealed or replaced before reassembly.  You probably had a PO who falied to do that. Regarding a drain and fill only: remove the caps and compress the shocks so you can draw out the lower main springs.  If the ends are full of sludge, I'd strip them down and clean them out (replacing the seals as a matter of course.)  If the oil on the springs looks clean, go ahead and just refill them.  Drain them first, since you need to correct the leaking Allen bolts, anyway. Also, there may be enough tension in the springs with the caps on to prevent the piston turning while you loosen and re-torque the Allen bolt.  And if your '80 uses the same 33mm forks as my '78, you'll need a longer than typical Allen socket to reach the left one. R '78 CX500 - Black Maggot --> Green Grub / Yellow Grub / Red Grub ???    Report

05-15-2008, 6:49 PM Doward Joined on 05-11-2008 Alachua, FL Posts 814 Re: Fork seal replacement I certainly don't want to hijack this thread, but are the seals for a '78 CX500 standard going to be 33mm x 46mm x 10.5mm? I'm searching eBay for seals, and this size is used on a lot of vehicles.   Some aren't listed for a specific bike, and are cheaper, and listed as this size. 1978 CX500 motor + 1980 CX500C frame    Report

05-15-2008, 7:02 PM Randall-in-Mpls Joined on 07-06-2007 Minneapolis, MN Posts 2,629 Re: Fork seal replacement The parts fiche lists 33x46x11.  What you found should fit, but I can't comment on the quality.  I used OEM.  They're not that expensive. R '78 CX500 - Black Maggot --> Green Grub / Yellow Grub / Red Grub ???    Report

05-15-2008, 9:15 PM LRCXed Joined on 05-15-2008 Sacramento, California Posts 1,670 Re: Fork seal replacement Pull the axle out and look up inside. You'll see the allen bolts. Put an allen wrench in there (long end in) , put a closed end wrench on the short side and tighten the bolts. THEY MIGHT JUST BE LOOSE. Try it, it's the cheepest thing you can do and it might just be the problem. Refill the forks and see what happens. If it works, then drain them and do it right. Good luck, IT"S easy. If your going to do something, do it right, don't do it half as@*d. 78 CX500 Std, 79 CX500 project, 80 CX500C, 83 GL650I http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/    Report

05-15-2008, 9:43 PM Evmo Joined on 03-22-2007 Nelson, New Zealand Posts 69 Re: Fork seal replacement I'm trying to do the same job on mine at the moment but I can't find the right fork seals anywhere. Also, my left fork keeps blowing seals (3 in 2 years) but the right never has- I've had the seals done by a shop until now as got no centerstand or garage, but lack of $$$ means its now a DIY job! Does anyone know if seals for any other model forks can be swapped in? I have been reading the other threads on entire front-end swaps but I don't think I have the tools to accomplish that at this stage! Cheers "Design something idiot-proof and someone else designs a better idiot"    Report

05-16-2008, 3:54 AM Shep Joined on 01-30-2007 UK.2x1980CX500A Posts 7,647 Re: Fork seal replacement The fork seals from several Hondas will fit, check the parts fiche as it lists other models that use them, http://www.cmsnl.com/search.php?s_name=cx500 and UK Ebay http://tinyurl.com/3hdkwj For mine, CB250Na (AUSTRALIA) s/n: from 2106034 CB250Na (ENGLAND) s/n: from 2106034 CB250Na (EUROPEAN DIRECT SALES) s/n: from 2106034 CB250Na (GERMANY (*1) s/n: from 2106034 CB400A '78: Area code: A CB400Na (AUSTRALIA) s/n: from 2100940 CB400Na (ENGLAND) s/n: from 2100940 CB400Na (EUROPEAN DIRECT SALES) s/n: from 2100940 CB400Na (FRANCE) s/n: from 2100940 CB400Na (GERMANY (*1) s/n: from 2100940 CB400T '80: Area code: A CB400T '81: Area code: A CB400TI '78: Area code: A CB400TI '79: Area code: A CB400TII '78: Area code: A CB400TII '79: Area code: A CJ360T '76: Area code: A CJ360T '77: Area code: A CR80R '84: Area code: A CX500C '80: Area code: A CX500D '80: Area code: A CX500D '81: Area code: A My Music http://www.reverbnation.com/pauldouglas/ Join Just In Case :) http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/ Id quot circumiret, circumveniat    Report

05-16-2008, 4:06 AM Shep Joined on 01-30-2007 UK.2x1980CX500A Posts 7,647 Re: Fork seal replacement done a bit of googling and they are a stock part, http://www.moto-pro.com/ProductPage.asp?strMPSID=KOS3346 KYB FK OIL SEAL 33x46x11 so not specific to Hondas IMHO. My Music http://www.reverbnation.com/pauldouglas/ Join Just In Case :) http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/ Id quot circumiret, circumveniat    Report

05-16-2008, 7:49 AM Randall-in-Mpls Joined on 07-06-2007 Minneapolis, MN Posts 2,629 Re: Fork seal replacement  LRCXed wrote: put a closed end wrench on the short side and tighten the bolts. THEY MIGHT JUST BE LOOSE. Or you might break them off.  Use a torque wrench and do it right. R '78 CX500 - Black Maggot --> Green Grub / Yellow Grub / Red Grub ???    Report

05-16-2008, 3:47 PM LRCXed Joined on 05-15-2008 Sacramento, California Posts 1,670 Re: Fork seal replacement Randall, I was just suggesting a quick check to give him some confidence. If it was loose that would tell him. If you noticed later in my reply, I said if it was loose and didn't leak, go back and do the job right. I'm sorry if I made it sound like this was my permanent sollution. It wasn't. Your right, as it says in my sig, Do it right. If your going to do something, do it right, don't do it half as@*d. 78 CX500 Std, 79 CX500 project, 80 CX500C, 83 GL650I http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/    Report

05-17-2008, 2:19 AM Randall-in-Mpls Joined on 07-06-2007 Minneapolis, MN Posts 2,629 Re: Fork seal replacement Sorry, I missed that. R '78 CX500 - Black Maggot --> Green Grub / Yellow Grub / Red Grub ???    Report

05-18-2008, 11:36 AM Exothermia Joined on 04-18-2008 Posts 116 Re: Fork seal replacement Well, that was fun. I tore into them this morning and I was fairly surprised by what I found. First, both the copper crush washers were in place and there was evidence of old gasket sealant on the allen bolts so they were installed correctly when they were last done. Then the oil itself hadn't leaked out as much as I thought. There was about 250 ccs total whereas there should have been 270 between the two forks. And it smelled like ATF so I'm guessing that's what it was. But it was really dark, like a dark brownish purple color. I'd guess it hadn't been changed in a very very long time. Anyway the allen bolts on the bottom were a breeze to remove with the cap still on and the forks under pressure. After I drained it I had to put the top caps back on to compress the springs to put the allen bolts back in though. The fork springs were in fine form, no sludge and not really very dirty. I used gasket sealant on the allen bolts when I put them in and filled up the forks and away I went. The forks are far better now, but I'm sorry to say I put ATF back in them rather than fork oil because my local cycle shop was closed and I couldn't get any today. I didn't want to leave my bike on a jack outside overnight so I just got what the manual called for and figured it can't be any worse than it's supposed to be after all. They are still pretty soft which is obviously due to the crappy ATF but they work like they're supposed to now. We'll see if they leak, I doubt they will much now considering how little of the old stuff had apparently leaked. If it does start leaking though I'll probably just go ahead and tear them all the way down, replace the seals and fill them with 20wt.    Report

05-22-2008, 7:52 PM WayneDW Joined on 07-28-2006 Minneapolis Posts 1,655 Re: Fork seal replacement Abes, thanks so much for the excellent write up, above, on re-doing front forks and the link to Rob Davis. They were extrememly helpful. I went out to my garage on Saturday and noticed a puddle under my front tire. I thought, oh oh, either brake fluid or fork fluid. It was fork fluid. In spite of 30 years of wrenching on my motorcycles I never had the need to tear into a front fork. This was going to be a learning experience. I got out my Honda manual and my Clymers and started reading. Seemed very confusing to me. I then searched and found your clearly written, step by step write up, now that looked do-able! I printed it out and stuck it with the books. Also pulled up Rob Davis' page and left it on my computer screen in case I needed a fourth reference. I've worked on it a couple hours every day since Saturday (today is Thursday) and it is done. Man, that was a steep learning curve! I took the leaking left side off first, which went OK. The hardest part was getting that darn Circlip out! Man what a bugger! The other problem was the cycle shop sold me the wrong oil seal or it was defective because it was too small and I ruined it. Monday I went to a Honda dealer and bought a Honda seal, slipped right on! Then I tried putting all the parts back together including the circlip but realized I put some of the parts in wrong and had to work that bugger off again! After it was together right again i thought; "well I won't have that problem with the other side now that I learned my lesson". Wrong... the next day I put the right side together including the circlip and the springs and realized I still had a part sitting on the bench! Duuh! This time I broke the circlip getting it out and had to wait to buy another one the next day. Also ran short of fork oil. The Honda parts people are starting to recognize me... But, persistance paid off and I now can say I have replaced fork seals and oil. And, if I ever do it again maybe I'll only have to put it back together once. Thanks again, Abes! Wayne 1983 GL650 Silverwing Interstate WWW.fossilapostles.com    Report

05-22-2008, 10:57 PM Abes_CW Joined on 04-17-2007 saskatoon Posts 3,036 Re: Fork seal replacement That's awesome guys. The credit belongs to Rob Davis for sure! Inquiring minds want to know though... How's the handling now vs before? 1983 GL650i Had 4 CX/GL's at one point this year, down to one, next spring is another adventure! age 38 (29 plus tax)    Report

05-23-2008, 5:21 AM Exothermia Joined on 04-18-2008 Posts 116 Re: Fork seal replacement Mine handles much better but I have to agree that ATF makes crappy fork oil. They are pretty soft for my taste. But they aren't leaking at all and the forks work a hell of a lot better. Now that I know what to do I may drain them and refill them with 20wt later this summer to stiffen them up like others have done.    Report

05-23-2008, 7:49 AM Randall-in-Mpls Joined on 07-06-2007 Minneapolis, MN Posts 2,629 Re: Fork seal replacement I increased the rear pre-load adjustments this morning.  It caused an even more noticeable change than servicing the forks.  WayneDW wrote: Also ran short of fork oil. Too bad I didn't know.  I have a partial bottle of 20wt that's not quite enough to fill the forks.  If anyone else in the area needs it, let me know. R '78 CX500 - Black Maggot --> Green Grub / Yellow Grub / Red Grub ???    Report

05-23-2008, 3:52 PM WayneDW Joined on 07-28-2006 Minneapolis Posts 1,655 Re: Fork seal replacement And I have a half of bottle of 10wt for anybody needing it. (Honda Town only had 10wt or 30wt). If you mixed my 10 with Randall's 20 would you get 15??? I don't have an opinion on the ride yet, I only took it up and down the alley checking for leaks and it was pretty soft, but then I realized I had forgot to put any air in it. Didn't really have a problem with the ride before, just a leak. Wayne 1983 GL650 Silverwing Interstate WWW.fossilapostles.com    Report

07-20-2008, 11:51 AM GunnieDeluxe Joined on 06-03-2008 Fayetteville, Ar Posts 21 Re: Fork seal replacement I am very grateful for the helpful advice from the likes of Abes, Rob Davis, and many others... tore into my forks yesterday to replace some leaky seals, and not only knew exactly what to expect, I had an impact driver waiting to go... total time for a newbie... four hours, and I even found (unless I missed it in another post) that a 17mm wrench has more surface area against the seals and is less likely of scratching the inside of the sliders than a screwdriver... [img=http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/9404/1000404yw8.th.jpg] Thanks for allowing me to enjoy the hobby my wife never knew she loathed... 1979 CX500D    Report

07-20-2008, 12:02 PM Shep Joined on 01-30-2007 UK.2x1980CX500A Posts 7,647 Re: Fork seal replacement Glad all is well :) how do they feel?Did you use heavier Fork oil in them.I use 20w. My Music http://www.reverbnation.com/pauldouglas/ Join Just In Case :) http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/ Id quot circumiret, circumveniat    Report

07-20-2008, 5:51 PM GunnieDeluxe Joined on 06-03-2008 Fayetteville, Ar Posts 21 Re: Fork seal replacement I went with 10, and after putting around the neighborhood this afternoon, the difference is unbelievable... although, the oil and seals that came out of the forks looked to be from at least the Reagan era... 1979 CX500D    Report

07-21-2008, 4:23 AM Shep Joined on 01-30-2007 UK.2x1980CX500A Posts 7,647 Re: Fork seal replacement There's a part of a road that leads onto the motorway/Highway from here that is goes nearly full circle bend before it meets the main road.It's a great test for me to know if the bike is handling well.As soon as I changed to 20w fork oil it was like riding on rails going around there,an absolute joy.So solid and secure.Even though there's a faster way back to my house I always use that road as I just love the feel My Music http://www.reverbnation.com/pauldouglas/ Join Just In Case :) http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/ Id quot circumiret, circumveniat    Report

07-24-2008, 7:31 PM bearmani Joined on 07-02-2008 a few mile east of the crossroads of mid-america Posts 100 Re: Fork seal replacement my honda stealer even went as far to tell me that he didn't "think" they even MADE 20wt fork oil..honda doesn't make/have it, so where dows 1 go for this (seemingly) very rare lubricant.IF fo no other reason than to go back to willy world and give dat friggin arrogant punk kid a bath in da chit!!!!!!!!!AAARRGGGGGGHHHHHHH!!!!!!!! 1981 gl500 "Rustic-225"    Report

07-24-2008, 7:43 PM Shep Joined on 01-30-2007 UK.2x1980CX500A Posts 7,647 Re: Fork seal replacement If in doubt,Ebay :) http://tinyurl.com/6n68bk My Music http://www.reverbnation.com/pauldouglas/ Join Just In Case :) http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/ Id quot circumiret, circumveniat    Report

07-24-2008, 7:53 PM bearmani Joined on 07-02-2008 a few mile east of the crossroads of mid-america Posts 100 Re: Fork seal replacement thanks man.you guys in here are just so frigging helpful n knowledgeable.....and friendly......maybe ya DO meet the NICEST people on a honda, eh?......lol 1981 gl500 "Rustic-225"    Report

04-20-2009, 9:18 AM Abes_CW Joined on 04-17-2007 saskatoon Posts 3,036 Re: Fork seal replacement: Update photo's added Photo's added 1983 GL650i Had 4 CX/GL's at one point this year, down to one, next spring is another adventure! age 38 (29 plus tax)    Report

04-26-2009, 9:25 PM Marytime2day Joined on 04-18-2009 little town in Iowa Posts 62 Re: Fork seal replacement: Update photo's added I have read through it and even printed it.  The question I have,  Do you think a weakling, (or woman)  can even do this.  Marytime2day Doing the best I can with what I got, always looking to do better. '81 CX500 Custom since '06    Report

04-26-2009, 9:31 PM Blindstitch Joined on 03-14-2009 Greenfield Wisconsin Posts 9,863 Re: Fork seal replacement: Update photo's added Depends can you cook a turkey. If you can stuff a turkey you can replace a seal. Just take your time. Even a little girl skipping rope could do it with the right tools. 1979 CX500 Supertanker ATGATT makes riding a bike like a sled easier. Quick Reference    Report

04-27-2009, 2:45 AM roundman72 Joined on 03-24-2009 Laporte Indiana Posts 393 Re: Fork seal replacement: Update photo's added Yes just take your time and be careful.  I was shocked at how easy it was.  like said taking apart is what takes time.  Driving the seal home with out  damage is the tricky part.  But you can do it. 82 gl500I 82 xs650 70 cl450 (restoring) 74 cl450 (non runner) 00 Moto Guzzi Jackal (ended up selling)    Report

04-27-2009, 5:15 AM Marytime2day Joined on 04-18-2009 little town in Iowa Posts 62 Re: Fork seal replacement: Update photo's added Thanks guys, Soon as I get time to get to the store and then get time to get it done I will be trying it. I tackle a lot of things, but can't say that I am all that great at anything. Kinda like cooking turkey. Jack of all traits, but master of none. I surprised myself last year I tinned my garage roof which is ribbed, comes to a center peak. What a pain that was but looks nicer and better yet keeps the rain out. Marytime2day Doing the best I can with what I got, always looking to do better. '81 CX500 Custom since '06    Report

05-17-2009, 12:44 PM Marytime2day Joined on 04-18-2009 little town in Iowa Posts 62 Re: Fork seal replacement: Update photo's added Hey I did it, I did it! Well not all by myself had to have some help.   It was a real bugger to get the cap threaded.  My bike is back together.   Wahoo! Thanks You guys were a big help, I certainly could not have done it without this forum, let alone even attempted.  What a great bunch of people here.   Mary Marytime2day Doing the best I can with what I got, always looking to do better. '81 CX500 Custom since '06    Report

05-27-2009, 6:23 AM Prairie Dog Joined on 05-06-2009 Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada Posts 90 Re: Fork seal replacement: Update with photos Abes, when you say to use a 1 1/2" PVC pipe fitting what type of fitting are you referring to, I plan to install fork seals this weekend. Thanks. 1982 Honda GL500I Silverwing Interstate (19K km) 50 year old teenager    Report

05-27-2009, 7:37 AM Blindstitch Joined on 03-14-2009 Greenfield Wisconsin Posts 9,863 Re: Fork seal replacement: Update with photos There is a picture of it above. If that doesn't help just take the fork seals to the hardware store with you and get a piece of pipe with the same dimensions. The 1 1/2 is probably the inside diameter of the pipe. 1979 CX500 Supertanker ATGATT makes riding a bike like a sled easier. Quick Reference    Report

03-23-2010, 7:29 PM Retroben Joined on 08-13-2009 Akron, OH Posts 51 Yet another motorcycle repair fiasco. Back when I replaced my steering head bearings, I got lazy and decided to drain the ATF through the drain hole on my forks and refill with 20WT fork oil through the air tube connection, rather than doing it right. Over the winter I noticed some dripping starting (the bike was on its center stand), first on one side only. Then after the first few spring rides both forks started to blow lots of oil. Obviously the seals had quit. I thought that between the Haynes, Clymer, factory service manual and this forum, I'd be able to figure out how to replace my fork seals. Instead I'm somewhere between humbled and humiliated (update: mad too). Apparently the now non-functional "Rob Davis' link" could have been the key to unlock this mystery. But the link is broken. Can't anybody produce some clear, unambiguous, step-by-step instructions on how to do this? Why so many differences in the recommended sequences (Allen bolt first, top cap first?)   Strangely, I had no trouble at all with the circlip or the top cap. I finally got one fork disassembled, cleaned, new seal on and reassembled.  I cleaned off some pitting and burring on the damper piston - no mention of that anywhere, and no idea what caused it, so I"m just hoping that after some delicate filing and fine sandpapering it will be OK.  The "oil lock piece" was beat up pretty bad too. I later realized I probably did this while vigorously trying  to release the slider from the fork tube. Cleaned it up with a fine file and sandpaper, hoping for the best. 6 hours' work. Just to make sure this was a perfect day, my local independent shop sold me the wrong seals, so wasted another hour going to exchange them. Took me 4 hours to find copper crush washers in town. So add another day to the project. Now I'm on the second fork, the slider and tube will not separate no matter how hard I yank. I know I'm chewing up that stupid oil lock piece by banging in and out on the tubes.  Anybody know any tricks for this? Thanks Ben '81 GL500 Silverwing    Report

03-24-2010, 12:34 AM spanish bandit Joined on 02-12-2009 southern spain Posts 5,010 Re: Yet another motorcycle repair fiasco. wow,this is an old[but great thread] ben,as long as you have the bottom allan key bolt out,and the circlip at the top,they will come apart.work useing the 2 parts like a slide hammer. Why so many differences in the recommended sequences (Allen bolt first, top cap first?) ..................i didnt know that there were any conflicting methods..............always loosen the allen key bolt first..before undoing the caps... when i feel the need,i do it,llego,ve 60,s ----------------------------- 2008.1982 honda gli silverwing [uk model ] 2010.1981 honda gli silverwing [uk model ]    Report

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